did some more clearing the tops of flowers to let sun get to plants, but still shade the soil.
since it is time to plant, Andrea and I put some more seeds down since our last ones did nothing. hopefully with the new watering set-up (not yet installed) these will take.
always weeds.
oh and I wanted to mention about the purslane. it is edible so I have not been taking it out. got to start eating it! free greens!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portulaca_oleracea
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
dark moon 7/22: make a wish
Lunar Living lecture at the Hubbell House
Saturday July 18, Zoe Edrington-Wilcox (mothernaturegardens.com)
after dark moon, 1st Q begins (Water), energy is rising up from the earth, time for nurturing, planting, fertilization; early stage of life.
with the waxing moon, into the 2nd Q (Fire), time to transplant, energy and courage are strong now; the weight of fruit is at its heaviest, so harvest.
the full moon comes and marks the transition to 3rd Q (Air). Time to turn inward. Shed what is extra. Plant only root crops as energy is going back down into the earth with the waning moon.
In the 4th Q (Earth), no planting, time for rest and repair, energy is in the roots now.
PS I won a raffle prize of "Household Product Management Wheel" from the county Water Resources program; consult the new expert, me, for any disposal questions about automotive, paint, aerosols, cleaners, batteries, moth balls, etc.
Saturday July 18, Zoe Edrington-Wilcox (mothernaturegardens.com)
after dark moon, 1st Q begins (Water), energy is rising up from the earth, time for nurturing, planting, fertilization; early stage of life.
with the waxing moon, into the 2nd Q (Fire), time to transplant, energy and courage are strong now; the weight of fruit is at its heaviest, so harvest.
the full moon comes and marks the transition to 3rd Q (Air). Time to turn inward. Shed what is extra. Plant only root crops as energy is going back down into the earth with the waning moon.
In the 4th Q (Earth), no planting, time for rest and repair, energy is in the roots now.
PS I won a raffle prize of "Household Product Management Wheel" from the county Water Resources program; consult the new expert, me, for any disposal questions about automotive, paint, aerosols, cleaners, batteries, moth balls, etc.
monday July 20th surprise
Claire and Marie make a quick stop in the morning to do some weeding. The stuff that I suspected was parsley from seed grew into carrots! and they were perfect and delicious.
they were from throwaway seeds that I threw into the ground last fall I think.
We also decided with Lora that the hoses needed to be split up to even out the watering. Claire offered to buy the new hoses needed and I think the 4-way splitters for the hose bibs are already there.
Peace
Monday, July 13, 2009
Thursday, July 9, 2009
from Adaptation, bees pollinating flowers
By simply doing what they're designed to do, something large and magnificent happens. In this sense, they show us how to live. How the only barometer you have is your heart. How when you spot your flower, you can't let anything get in your way.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
watering
Squash and other summer vegetables don't require a daily watering unless the temperatures are above 90 degrees. When the temperatures are above 80 degrees, a good soaking three times a week is sufficient.
With cooler temperatures, feel the soil first before watering. If it feels moist, do not water. Our temperatures were below normal the first two weeks of June. This was a major contributor to today's blossom end rot problem.
Our summer weather pattern will cycle through periods of mild, warm and hot spells. You need to vary your watering frequency week to week. Also, I prefer to water in morning on a rising temperature, rather than in the late afternoon or in the early evening hours when the plants stay soggy until the next day.
With cooler temperatures, feel the soil first before watering. If it feels moist, do not water. Our temperatures were below normal the first two weeks of June. This was a major contributor to today's blossom end rot problem.
Our summer weather pattern will cycle through periods of mild, warm and hot spells. You need to vary your watering frequency week to week. Also, I prefer to water in morning on a rising temperature, rather than in the late afternoon or in the early evening hours when the plants stay soggy until the next day.
recipe from Scibona, S
Here’s something I like, based on a recipe by Marcella Hazan: a tomato salad that follows the ideal of preparing an ingredient so that it just tastes vibrantly of itself.
In a shot glass, mix a teaspoon of salt with four crushed cloves of garlic. Fill with red wine vinegar and let steep for thirty minutes. Throw out the garlic. Slice three large tomatoes into thick rounds and arrange them in overlapping layers on a broad, shallow dish. Tear a dozen leaves of basil over them, add fresh grindings of black pepper, pour on the vinegar, and cover with olive oil. Do not use cheap oil, yo.
Do not make this unless you have real homegrown or farmers’ market tomatoes, in season. Use a few different varieties, of different colors, if you please. Serve with bread to soak up the juice.
Most people to whom I’ve served this refer to what they’re eating as “tomatoes”—not a salad or a dish of any kind. Nothing gets in the way. It’s a plate of tomatoes, emphatically so.
In a shot glass, mix a teaspoon of salt with four crushed cloves of garlic. Fill with red wine vinegar and let steep for thirty minutes. Throw out the garlic. Slice three large tomatoes into thick rounds and arrange them in overlapping layers on a broad, shallow dish. Tear a dozen leaves of basil over them, add fresh grindings of black pepper, pour on the vinegar, and cover with olive oil. Do not use cheap oil, yo.
Do not make this unless you have real homegrown or farmers’ market tomatoes, in season. Use a few different varieties, of different colors, if you please. Serve with bread to soak up the juice.
Most people to whom I’ve served this refer to what they’re eating as “tomatoes”—not a salad or a dish of any kind. Nothing gets in the way. It’s a plate of tomatoes, emphatically so.
july
• In the vegetable garden, garlic and onions are ready when their tops bend over. Let them dry in a shady spot for a couple of weeks, then remove tops and store in paper bags in a cool pantry, or leave tops on and braid them for garlic and onion ristras.
• Stake fast-growing plants as needed before they begin to flop over.
• Continue to remove weeds and unwanted grasses. They go to seed faster in hot weather.
• To reduce watering and to help cool the soil around your plants, continue to mulch. Add mulch where plants are drying out too fast.
Garden Tip!!! This is a good time to empty the compost bin and restart it. You'll get a good start on a new batch of compost that will winter over. Compost that is too hot to use on plants at this time can be dug into an unplanted area, or it can be set aside to finish composting. Keep stored compost covered so rain won't leach out nutrients.
Watering. Keep adjusting your watering schedule for hot weather. Generally, water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days deeply. Water established beds weekly. This will not be adequate for new plantings or soil that has little organic matter.
WATERING TIP!!! Water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days to a depth of three feet. A soaker hose running at the dripline of these plants will do the job. Don't fertilize them any more this year as that would encourage tender growth when the plants need to begin preparing for winter dormancy.
Pruning. If you haven't completed pruning of your spring-flowering shrubs, be sure to do it by July 15th.
Planting. After the 15th, you might try planting another row of green beans for harvest in early September.
• Stake fast-growing plants as needed before they begin to flop over.
• Continue to remove weeds and unwanted grasses. They go to seed faster in hot weather.
• To reduce watering and to help cool the soil around your plants, continue to mulch. Add mulch where plants are drying out too fast.
Garden Tip!!! This is a good time to empty the compost bin and restart it. You'll get a good start on a new batch of compost that will winter over. Compost that is too hot to use on plants at this time can be dug into an unplanted area, or it can be set aside to finish composting. Keep stored compost covered so rain won't leach out nutrients.
Watering. Keep adjusting your watering schedule for hot weather. Generally, water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days deeply. Water established beds weekly. This will not be adequate for new plantings or soil that has little organic matter.
WATERING TIP!!! Water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days to a depth of three feet. A soaker hose running at the dripline of these plants will do the job. Don't fertilize them any more this year as that would encourage tender growth when the plants need to begin preparing for winter dormancy.
Pruning. If you haven't completed pruning of your spring-flowering shrubs, be sure to do it by July 15th.
Planting. After the 15th, you might try planting another row of green beans for harvest in early September.
Friday, June 19, 2009
June coolness
really warm temps have yet to arrive. The weather, though weird, offers opportunity to establish new plants in the garden. The milder conditions will afford an easier time if planting more than two or three additions.
For those having trouble with weeks-old plants, it's not just you. Overcast skies keep air and soil temperatures cool, which halts tomato and pepper growth. Watch watering carefully to prevent root rot. Mulch to reduce watering and prevent the stress of dramatic swings in soil moisture.
For those having trouble with weeks-old plants, it's not just you. Overcast skies keep air and soil temperatures cool, which halts tomato and pepper growth. Watch watering carefully to prevent root rot. Mulch to reduce watering and prevent the stress of dramatic swings in soil moisture.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Greetings fellow gardeners!
I'm somewhat new to the garden so I haven't met all of you yet. I have been working in the garden with Marie, doing a lot of weeding and helping out with the irrigation situation--which it appears we have straightened out thanks to the new hoses.
Sunday evening I went over and planted a few new things:
- In the plot where there previously was garlic, I put two acorn squash plants. I also added some bunching onions, leeks, and chives near the onion plan that was already there.
- I put a third squash plant in the far back plot, but it and the other vine plants (squash? melon? cucumber?) don't seem to be doing too well back there.
- In the section with the dying poppies and peppers that Marie recently added, I put two creeping thyme plants.
from Farmer Monte, mid-June
For those of you growing at home. Now is the time to be thinking about those Fall crops. It is the inherent contradiction of growing food— you plan for your hot crops in the coldest time of year, and cold crops in the hottest time of year.
Broccoli, radishes, spinach, lettuces, chards, greens, and cabbage. Now is the time to secure seeds or look for a place who will have transplants. We will not be planting until just after the 4th of July, but we have to prepare now.
Broccoli, radishes, spinach, lettuces, chards, greens, and cabbage. Now is the time to secure seeds or look for a place who will have transplants. We will not be planting until just after the 4th of July, but we have to prepare now.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
tomato tips
Moisture: Moist, but not waterlogged.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy feeder. Use starter solution for transplants. Sidedress 1 to 2 weeks before the first tomato ripens with 1-1/2 ounces 33-0-0 per 10-foot row. Sidedress again 2 weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5; repeat 1 month later.
Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to get a good start.
Growing tomatoes in wire cages is a method gaining in popularity among gardeners because of its simplicity. Cage-growing allows the tomato plant to grow in its natural manner, but keeps the fruit and leaves off the ground, offering the advantages of staking as well. Using wire cages requires a large initial expenditure and a large storage area, but many gardeners feel that the freedom from pruning and staking is worth it. The cages, if heavy duty, will last many years. Be sure to get fencing with at least 6" spacing between wires so that you can get your hand inside to harvest the tomatoes. If tomato plants in wire cages are pruned at all, once is enough; prune to three or four main stems. Wire-cage tomatoes develop a heavy foliage cover, reducing sunscald on fruits and giving more leeway when bottom leaves become blighted and have to be removed. Many staked plants are nearly naked by late summer. Caged plants are less prone to the spread of disease from plant handling, since they do not have open wounds and must be handled less frequently than staked plants. However, it helps to space the plants somewhat further apart (three feet is good) to allow good air circulation between plants; humidity is higher because of the foliage density, and diseases such as late blight spread rapidly in humid situations. If well-nourished and cared for, caged tomatoes can produce exceptional harvests and make up for the extra space with high production. This type of culture is especially suited to indeterminate varieties.
Harvest fully vine-ripened but still firm. Most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in shade. Light is not necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Some green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55ºF), moist (90% relative humidity) place. When desired, ripen fruits at 70ºF.
Approximate yields: 15 to 45 pounds per 10-foot row.
Amount to Raise: 20 to 25 pounds per person if used fresh; 25 to 40 pounds for canning.
Storage: Medium-cool (50 to 70° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 1 to 3 weeks for green tomatoes. Cool (45 to 50° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 4 to 7 days for ripe tomatoes.
Preservation: Can or freeze as sauces or in chunks (whole or quartered), peeled.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy feeder. Use starter solution for transplants. Sidedress 1 to 2 weeks before the first tomato ripens with 1-1/2 ounces 33-0-0 per 10-foot row. Sidedress again 2 weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5; repeat 1 month later.
Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to get a good start.
Growing tomatoes in wire cages is a method gaining in popularity among gardeners because of its simplicity. Cage-growing allows the tomato plant to grow in its natural manner, but keeps the fruit and leaves off the ground, offering the advantages of staking as well. Using wire cages requires a large initial expenditure and a large storage area, but many gardeners feel that the freedom from pruning and staking is worth it. The cages, if heavy duty, will last many years. Be sure to get fencing with at least 6" spacing between wires so that you can get your hand inside to harvest the tomatoes. If tomato plants in wire cages are pruned at all, once is enough; prune to three or four main stems. Wire-cage tomatoes develop a heavy foliage cover, reducing sunscald on fruits and giving more leeway when bottom leaves become blighted and have to be removed. Many staked plants are nearly naked by late summer. Caged plants are less prone to the spread of disease from plant handling, since they do not have open wounds and must be handled less frequently than staked plants. However, it helps to space the plants somewhat further apart (three feet is good) to allow good air circulation between plants; humidity is higher because of the foliage density, and diseases such as late blight spread rapidly in humid situations. If well-nourished and cared for, caged tomatoes can produce exceptional harvests and make up for the extra space with high production. This type of culture is especially suited to indeterminate varieties.
Harvest fully vine-ripened but still firm. Most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in shade. Light is not necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Some green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55ºF), moist (90% relative humidity) place. When desired, ripen fruits at 70ºF.
Approximate yields: 15 to 45 pounds per 10-foot row.
Amount to Raise: 20 to 25 pounds per person if used fresh; 25 to 40 pounds for canning.
Storage: Medium-cool (50 to 70° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 1 to 3 weeks for green tomatoes. Cool (45 to 50° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 4 to 7 days for ripe tomatoes.
Preservation: Can or freeze as sauces or in chunks (whole or quartered), peeled.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
also check first june entry
labeled june +
weeds to pull:
grass
elm
puncture vine/goatheads
purslane (even though it is edible)
bind weed
pigweed (it looks a bit like the red amaranth, but its green)
weeds to pull:
grass
elm
puncture vine/goatheads
purslane (even though it is edible)
bind weed
pigweed (it looks a bit like the red amaranth, but its green)
more plantings
There is not much of a map this year since we want to plant densely. I think the important thing is to not plant the tomatoes in the same place as last year. which was mostly back/middle right. year before was front/middle right.
Lora planted some corn on a ~10' section of the northside fence just down from the front. I will plant some seeds for vines adjacent to that. This should be the only area that needs hand watering.
The seeds I got are Cardinal Climber, Black-Eyed Susan vine, and Scarlet Hyacinth bean. If anyone wants, there are extra seeds.
Notes on things already planted
Rue/Ruta graveolens: a shrubby evergreen w/blue-green fern-like foliage and yellow flowers. Leaves used for antiseptic and disinfectant. Handling may irritate sensitive skin. It could have been cut back by half in spring for new lush growth. and it can be shaped and sized during the season, especially if it is getting in the way of the path or other plants. deters aphids and other pests. should not be planted near cukes, cabbage, basil or sage. oops.
Lemon mint/Monarda citriodora? I have the label, not sure about the plant. annual or biennial w/lemon scent foliage and large pink flowers spring to summer.
Green Zebra Striped tomato, indeterminate (grows and grows) light/dark green striped skin. great in salads, zingy flavor. we had some last year. delicious.
there are nasturtiums growing. they have edible flowers, are good companions to tomatoes and fast growers. there are morning glories at the fence corner near the front/east hose bib. guide them to climb in the fence and avoid stepping on them. seems to be 3 different plants.
also bee balm and cleome planted for bees and companions. and pretty.
some zinnia volunteers have appeared. and sunflowers.
another strawberry. although struggling somewhat.
plenty of room. keep planting. and check the companion charts just in case.
Lora planted some corn on a ~10' section of the northside fence just down from the front. I will plant some seeds for vines adjacent to that. This should be the only area that needs hand watering.
The seeds I got are Cardinal Climber, Black-Eyed Susan vine, and Scarlet Hyacinth bean. If anyone wants, there are extra seeds.
Notes on things already planted
Rue/Ruta graveolens: a shrubby evergreen w/blue-green fern-like foliage and yellow flowers. Leaves used for antiseptic and disinfectant. Handling may irritate sensitive skin. It could have been cut back by half in spring for new lush growth. and it can be shaped and sized during the season, especially if it is getting in the way of the path or other plants. deters aphids and other pests. should not be planted near cukes, cabbage, basil or sage. oops.
Lemon mint/Monarda citriodora? I have the label, not sure about the plant. annual or biennial w/lemon scent foliage and large pink flowers spring to summer.
Green Zebra Striped tomato, indeterminate (grows and grows) light/dark green striped skin. great in salads, zingy flavor. we had some last year. delicious.
there are nasturtiums growing. they have edible flowers, are good companions to tomatoes and fast growers. there are morning glories at the fence corner near the front/east hose bib. guide them to climb in the fence and avoid stepping on them. seems to be 3 different plants.
also bee balm and cleome planted for bees and companions. and pretty.
some zinnia volunteers have appeared. and sunflowers.
another strawberry. although struggling somewhat.
plenty of room. keep planting. and check the companion charts just in case.
irrigation! and plantings
After some research last week, (pulling up hose, poking holes, etc.), it was deemed the flat hose should be replaced with round hose.
Claire got 2 25' lengths of hose and Andrea and I installed it snaking around the existing plants and moving the other hose too. We used the staples, but did not bury it.
The new lengths are on the east hosebib only. They water less than the hose closer to the source so we might make another split on the bib and install some plain hose to the new and disconnect it from the old. make sense?
The west hosebib over waters the back right plot so we have to try to water slower and longer.
Constantine and I, separately have the idea that the back left plot and back right border areas could be used for digging in composting method.
PLANTINGS new and surprising
back right has some cabbage/broccoli things, a tomato, flowers and some zucchini and/or cukes
red lettuce is supposed to produce all season so don't take it out by the roots.
some green chiles were put in middle left and some parsley is coming up there too.
tomatoes: sweet 100s, heirloom (zebra stripe, goliath, black/purple something), romas and others?
we have been taking out the cover crop, hairy vetch, in places where it is overgrowing and letting it dry and then crumbling it up as mulch. who knows if this is preserving the benefits. digging it in would def. work.
marie
Claire got 2 25' lengths of hose and Andrea and I installed it snaking around the existing plants and moving the other hose too. We used the staples, but did not bury it.
The new lengths are on the east hosebib only. They water less than the hose closer to the source so we might make another split on the bib and install some plain hose to the new and disconnect it from the old. make sense?
The west hosebib over waters the back right plot so we have to try to water slower and longer.
Constantine and I, separately have the idea that the back left plot and back right border areas could be used for digging in composting method.
PLANTINGS new and surprising
back right has some cabbage/broccoli things, a tomato, flowers and some zucchini and/or cukes
red lettuce is supposed to produce all season so don't take it out by the roots.
some green chiles were put in middle left and some parsley is coming up there too.
tomatoes: sweet 100s, heirloom (zebra stripe, goliath, black/purple something), romas and others?
we have been taking out the cover crop, hairy vetch, in places where it is overgrowing and letting it dry and then crumbling it up as mulch. who knows if this is preserving the benefits. digging it in would def. work.
marie
Monday, June 8, 2009
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