really warm temps have yet to arrive. The weather, though weird, offers opportunity to establish new plants in the garden. The milder conditions will afford an easier time if planting more than two or three additions.
For those having trouble with weeks-old plants, it's not just you. Overcast skies keep air and soil temperatures cool, which halts tomato and pepper growth. Watch watering carefully to prevent root rot. Mulch to reduce watering and prevent the stress of dramatic swings in soil moisture.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Greetings fellow gardeners!
I'm somewhat new to the garden so I haven't met all of you yet. I have been working in the garden with Marie, doing a lot of weeding and helping out with the irrigation situation--which it appears we have straightened out thanks to the new hoses.
Sunday evening I went over and planted a few new things:
- In the plot where there previously was garlic, I put two acorn squash plants. I also added some bunching onions, leeks, and chives near the onion plan that was already there.
- I put a third squash plant in the far back plot, but it and the other vine plants (squash? melon? cucumber?) don't seem to be doing too well back there.
- In the section with the dying poppies and peppers that Marie recently added, I put two creeping thyme plants.
from Farmer Monte, mid-June
For those of you growing at home. Now is the time to be thinking about those Fall crops. It is the inherent contradiction of growing food— you plan for your hot crops in the coldest time of year, and cold crops in the hottest time of year.
Broccoli, radishes, spinach, lettuces, chards, greens, and cabbage. Now is the time to secure seeds or look for a place who will have transplants. We will not be planting until just after the 4th of July, but we have to prepare now.
Broccoli, radishes, spinach, lettuces, chards, greens, and cabbage. Now is the time to secure seeds or look for a place who will have transplants. We will not be planting until just after the 4th of July, but we have to prepare now.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
tomato tips
Moisture: Moist, but not waterlogged.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy feeder. Use starter solution for transplants. Sidedress 1 to 2 weeks before the first tomato ripens with 1-1/2 ounces 33-0-0 per 10-foot row. Sidedress again 2 weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5; repeat 1 month later.
Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to get a good start.
Growing tomatoes in wire cages is a method gaining in popularity among gardeners because of its simplicity. Cage-growing allows the tomato plant to grow in its natural manner, but keeps the fruit and leaves off the ground, offering the advantages of staking as well. Using wire cages requires a large initial expenditure and a large storage area, but many gardeners feel that the freedom from pruning and staking is worth it. The cages, if heavy duty, will last many years. Be sure to get fencing with at least 6" spacing between wires so that you can get your hand inside to harvest the tomatoes. If tomato plants in wire cages are pruned at all, once is enough; prune to three or four main stems. Wire-cage tomatoes develop a heavy foliage cover, reducing sunscald on fruits and giving more leeway when bottom leaves become blighted and have to be removed. Many staked plants are nearly naked by late summer. Caged plants are less prone to the spread of disease from plant handling, since they do not have open wounds and must be handled less frequently than staked plants. However, it helps to space the plants somewhat further apart (three feet is good) to allow good air circulation between plants; humidity is higher because of the foliage density, and diseases such as late blight spread rapidly in humid situations. If well-nourished and cared for, caged tomatoes can produce exceptional harvests and make up for the extra space with high production. This type of culture is especially suited to indeterminate varieties.
Harvest fully vine-ripened but still firm. Most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in shade. Light is not necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Some green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55ºF), moist (90% relative humidity) place. When desired, ripen fruits at 70ºF.
Approximate yields: 15 to 45 pounds per 10-foot row.
Amount to Raise: 20 to 25 pounds per person if used fresh; 25 to 40 pounds for canning.
Storage: Medium-cool (50 to 70° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 1 to 3 weeks for green tomatoes. Cool (45 to 50° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 4 to 7 days for ripe tomatoes.
Preservation: Can or freeze as sauces or in chunks (whole or quartered), peeled.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy feeder. Use starter solution for transplants. Sidedress 1 to 2 weeks before the first tomato ripens with 1-1/2 ounces 33-0-0 per 10-foot row. Sidedress again 2 weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5; repeat 1 month later.
Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to get a good start.
Growing tomatoes in wire cages is a method gaining in popularity among gardeners because of its simplicity. Cage-growing allows the tomato plant to grow in its natural manner, but keeps the fruit and leaves off the ground, offering the advantages of staking as well. Using wire cages requires a large initial expenditure and a large storage area, but many gardeners feel that the freedom from pruning and staking is worth it. The cages, if heavy duty, will last many years. Be sure to get fencing with at least 6" spacing between wires so that you can get your hand inside to harvest the tomatoes. If tomato plants in wire cages are pruned at all, once is enough; prune to three or four main stems. Wire-cage tomatoes develop a heavy foliage cover, reducing sunscald on fruits and giving more leeway when bottom leaves become blighted and have to be removed. Many staked plants are nearly naked by late summer. Caged plants are less prone to the spread of disease from plant handling, since they do not have open wounds and must be handled less frequently than staked plants. However, it helps to space the plants somewhat further apart (three feet is good) to allow good air circulation between plants; humidity is higher because of the foliage density, and diseases such as late blight spread rapidly in humid situations. If well-nourished and cared for, caged tomatoes can produce exceptional harvests and make up for the extra space with high production. This type of culture is especially suited to indeterminate varieties.
Harvest fully vine-ripened but still firm. Most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in shade. Light is not necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Some green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55ºF), moist (90% relative humidity) place. When desired, ripen fruits at 70ºF.
Approximate yields: 15 to 45 pounds per 10-foot row.
Amount to Raise: 20 to 25 pounds per person if used fresh; 25 to 40 pounds for canning.
Storage: Medium-cool (50 to 70° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 1 to 3 weeks for green tomatoes. Cool (45 to 50° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 4 to 7 days for ripe tomatoes.
Preservation: Can or freeze as sauces or in chunks (whole or quartered), peeled.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
also check first june entry
labeled june +
weeds to pull:
grass
elm
puncture vine/goatheads
purslane (even though it is edible)
bind weed
pigweed (it looks a bit like the red amaranth, but its green)
weeds to pull:
grass
elm
puncture vine/goatheads
purslane (even though it is edible)
bind weed
pigweed (it looks a bit like the red amaranth, but its green)
more plantings
There is not much of a map this year since we want to plant densely. I think the important thing is to not plant the tomatoes in the same place as last year. which was mostly back/middle right. year before was front/middle right.
Lora planted some corn on a ~10' section of the northside fence just down from the front. I will plant some seeds for vines adjacent to that. This should be the only area that needs hand watering.
The seeds I got are Cardinal Climber, Black-Eyed Susan vine, and Scarlet Hyacinth bean. If anyone wants, there are extra seeds.
Notes on things already planted
Rue/Ruta graveolens: a shrubby evergreen w/blue-green fern-like foliage and yellow flowers. Leaves used for antiseptic and disinfectant. Handling may irritate sensitive skin. It could have been cut back by half in spring for new lush growth. and it can be shaped and sized during the season, especially if it is getting in the way of the path or other plants. deters aphids and other pests. should not be planted near cukes, cabbage, basil or sage. oops.
Lemon mint/Monarda citriodora? I have the label, not sure about the plant. annual or biennial w/lemon scent foliage and large pink flowers spring to summer.
Green Zebra Striped tomato, indeterminate (grows and grows) light/dark green striped skin. great in salads, zingy flavor. we had some last year. delicious.
there are nasturtiums growing. they have edible flowers, are good companions to tomatoes and fast growers. there are morning glories at the fence corner near the front/east hose bib. guide them to climb in the fence and avoid stepping on them. seems to be 3 different plants.
also bee balm and cleome planted for bees and companions. and pretty.
some zinnia volunteers have appeared. and sunflowers.
another strawberry. although struggling somewhat.
plenty of room. keep planting. and check the companion charts just in case.
Lora planted some corn on a ~10' section of the northside fence just down from the front. I will plant some seeds for vines adjacent to that. This should be the only area that needs hand watering.
The seeds I got are Cardinal Climber, Black-Eyed Susan vine, and Scarlet Hyacinth bean. If anyone wants, there are extra seeds.
Notes on things already planted
Rue/Ruta graveolens: a shrubby evergreen w/blue-green fern-like foliage and yellow flowers. Leaves used for antiseptic and disinfectant. Handling may irritate sensitive skin. It could have been cut back by half in spring for new lush growth. and it can be shaped and sized during the season, especially if it is getting in the way of the path or other plants. deters aphids and other pests. should not be planted near cukes, cabbage, basil or sage. oops.
Lemon mint/Monarda citriodora? I have the label, not sure about the plant. annual or biennial w/lemon scent foliage and large pink flowers spring to summer.
Green Zebra Striped tomato, indeterminate (grows and grows) light/dark green striped skin. great in salads, zingy flavor. we had some last year. delicious.
there are nasturtiums growing. they have edible flowers, are good companions to tomatoes and fast growers. there are morning glories at the fence corner near the front/east hose bib. guide them to climb in the fence and avoid stepping on them. seems to be 3 different plants.
also bee balm and cleome planted for bees and companions. and pretty.
some zinnia volunteers have appeared. and sunflowers.
another strawberry. although struggling somewhat.
plenty of room. keep planting. and check the companion charts just in case.
irrigation! and plantings
After some research last week, (pulling up hose, poking holes, etc.), it was deemed the flat hose should be replaced with round hose.
Claire got 2 25' lengths of hose and Andrea and I installed it snaking around the existing plants and moving the other hose too. We used the staples, but did not bury it.
The new lengths are on the east hosebib only. They water less than the hose closer to the source so we might make another split on the bib and install some plain hose to the new and disconnect it from the old. make sense?
The west hosebib over waters the back right plot so we have to try to water slower and longer.
Constantine and I, separately have the idea that the back left plot and back right border areas could be used for digging in composting method.
PLANTINGS new and surprising
back right has some cabbage/broccoli things, a tomato, flowers and some zucchini and/or cukes
red lettuce is supposed to produce all season so don't take it out by the roots.
some green chiles were put in middle left and some parsley is coming up there too.
tomatoes: sweet 100s, heirloom (zebra stripe, goliath, black/purple something), romas and others?
we have been taking out the cover crop, hairy vetch, in places where it is overgrowing and letting it dry and then crumbling it up as mulch. who knows if this is preserving the benefits. digging it in would def. work.
marie
Claire got 2 25' lengths of hose and Andrea and I installed it snaking around the existing plants and moving the other hose too. We used the staples, but did not bury it.
The new lengths are on the east hosebib only. They water less than the hose closer to the source so we might make another split on the bib and install some plain hose to the new and disconnect it from the old. make sense?
The west hosebib over waters the back right plot so we have to try to water slower and longer.
Constantine and I, separately have the idea that the back left plot and back right border areas could be used for digging in composting method.
PLANTINGS new and surprising
back right has some cabbage/broccoli things, a tomato, flowers and some zucchini and/or cukes
red lettuce is supposed to produce all season so don't take it out by the roots.
some green chiles were put in middle left and some parsley is coming up there too.
tomatoes: sweet 100s, heirloom (zebra stripe, goliath, black/purple something), romas and others?
we have been taking out the cover crop, hairy vetch, in places where it is overgrowing and letting it dry and then crumbling it up as mulch. who knows if this is preserving the benefits. digging it in would def. work.
marie
Monday, June 8, 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
from October
Attached is a companion planting document that Hope found for us. I tried to cut it down to only the stuff that we talked about planting for next year.
I am going to try to dig up the parsley today, and over winter it inside. This month's Sunset magazine also says that now is the time to plant salad greens and sweet peas! if anyone wants to take that up. also time for wildflower seeds.
I think we could change the whole plot to be all rows parallel to the long sides instead of having rows going in 2 directions. The drip hoses will be long enough.
See you Sunday at 2pm to begin hard labor!
Marie
Here's what we wanted:
sweet peas
watermelon
tomatoes-heirloom, roma and cherry (marigold and basil companions)
watercress, chard
cukes
hard squash
parsley
beets
big onions
corn
garlic
Task List
stake out new beds
dig out beds
build up paths
winterize: cover crop and mulch
dec 21: plant garlic
I am going to try to dig up the parsley today, and over winter it inside. This month's Sunset magazine also says that now is the time to plant salad greens and sweet peas! if anyone wants to take that up. also time for wildflower seeds.
I think we could change the whole plot to be all rows parallel to the long sides instead of having rows going in 2 directions. The drip hoses will be long enough.
See you Sunday at 2pm to begin hard labor!
Marie
Here's what we wanted:
sweet peas
watermelon
tomatoes-heirloom, roma and cherry (marigold and basil companions)
watercress, chard
cukes
hard squash
parsley
beets
big onions
corn
garlic
Task List
stake out new beds
dig out beds
build up paths
winterize: cover crop and mulch
dec 21: plant garlic
more november
Yesterday I went to the Sawmill/Wells Park "visioning" workshop for the 1 acre community garden, led by a UNM CRP studio. And I met a neighbor, Justin, who, along with his partner, is interested in learning about our 15th St. activities.
here is a summary of what I know about the community garden and part of what happened at the meeting yesterday.
A UNM Community and Regional Planning studio approached the Sawmill Land Trust inquiring about a possible design project that they could take on for their semester (this Fall). SCLT said yes, our community garden. Their semester-end product will be a summary of recommendations to the Land Trust on our garden that the Land Trust will then adopt, adapt, research and implement in some form.
So last month's meeting was a summary of their research into community gardens that they had been conducting for the first half of the semester. They had only talked to about 15 residents of the represented neighborhoods (Sawmill and Wells Park) via a written survey.
Sunday was a workshop focussed on engaging the community residents and their ideas for what our garden should and could be.
tour of site (I did not attend.)
discussion
1. what is the purpose of a community garden
what are historical purposes for community gardens (attached)
2. who will use the garden?
who will grow there?
what are ways to be involved in the garden?
how does it fit into/connect to the the community?
what is the meaning of the garden?
3. what are our preferred purposes for the garden?
4. mission statement exercise (I left at this point. so I do not know what the mission statement is)
then they did some kind of drawing exercise.
From: Loralucero@aol.com
I watered by hand the two beds on the right side yesterday afternoon. I'll connect the soaker hose today and see how it works!!
Hi All,
Yesterday Lora and I worked on the new linear bed on the right side.
We finished weeding and digging in compost. Laid out the soaker hose on the front section. And planted garlic, beet seeds (will these grow? let's see), and hairy vetch cover in the front. We also seeded the back with hairy vetch and then covered both sections with leaf mulch.
So the lettuce and snow pea seeds and the spinach starts need to be planted. I have no idea what will make it! but we should find out.
they could be planted in the back section and another soaker laid there. if the peas make a go of it in the spring, we can use string to bring them to the fence for climbing or build another kind of structure then.
we can finish weeding and shaping the left side and also we need to either build a new compost area or buy a composter, for left front area in front of stakes.
and get rid of our weedy compost pile.
here is a summary of what I know about the community garden and part of what happened at the meeting yesterday.
A UNM Community and Regional Planning studio approached the Sawmill Land Trust inquiring about a possible design project that they could take on for their semester (this Fall). SCLT said yes, our community garden. Their semester-end product will be a summary of recommendations to the Land Trust on our garden that the Land Trust will then adopt, adapt, research and implement in some form.
So last month's meeting was a summary of their research into community gardens that they had been conducting for the first half of the semester. They had only talked to about 15 residents of the represented neighborhoods (Sawmill and Wells Park) via a written survey.
Sunday was a workshop focussed on engaging the community residents and their ideas for what our garden should and could be.
tour of site (I did not attend.)
discussion
1. what is the purpose of a community garden
what are historical purposes for community gardens (attached)
2. who will use the garden?
who will grow there?
what are ways to be involved in the garden?
how does it fit into/connect to the the community?
what is the meaning of the garden?
3. what are our preferred purposes for the garden?
4. mission statement exercise (I left at this point. so I do not know what the mission statement is)
then they did some kind of drawing exercise.
From: Loralucero@aol.com
I watered by hand the two beds on the right side yesterday afternoon. I'll connect the soaker hose today and see how it works!!
Hi All,
Yesterday Lora and I worked on the new linear bed on the right side.
We finished weeding and digging in compost. Laid out the soaker hose on the front section. And planted garlic, beet seeds (will these grow? let's see), and hairy vetch cover in the front. We also seeded the back with hairy vetch and then covered both sections with leaf mulch.
So the lettuce and snow pea seeds and the spinach starts need to be planted. I have no idea what will make it! but we should find out.
they could be planted in the back section and another soaker laid there. if the peas make a go of it in the spring, we can use string to bring them to the fence for climbing or build another kind of structure then.
we can finish weeding and shaping the left side and also we need to either build a new compost area or buy a composter, for left front area in front of stakes.
and get rid of our weedy compost pile.
from November
But back to the game over frost for a second. Most people and books only talk about one real frost date, the time when the weather drops below 32 degrees. But in NM, there is another huge frost date, the time when it gets down to 24/25 degrees. That is when the harvest stops.
You see at about 31 degrees, you will lose all your summer plants (peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, melons, etc) to Jack Frost. But, and this is a big but, the fall crops are just hitting their stride at those temps. By fall crops I am talking broccoli, radishes, sweet turnips, salad mix, lettuces, and carrots. And I think all those crops actually start to taste better with the cooler weather.
That is due to the fact that with cooler weather, starches turn into sugars and the result is sweeter radishes, yummier lettuce, and candy carrots. All good things. This weather is also our last chance to get spring lettuce planted.
That was the question we grappled with last summer. The answer was to run trials to see when exactly the lettuce died after transplant due to the weather being in hospitable. And what we found shocked the heck out of me. That if we plant baby lettuce in November, into black plastic and cover it with row cover, that lettuce will sit there until late winter/early spring.
At that point it will take off and be ready way before any lettuce planted in 2009. The other thing I love about it is no weeding since it is growing through the winter, and the flavor is insane. This lettuce is in the field for close to 4 months. In that time the leaves get a bit thicker, but they are sweet and totally tasty. Love them.
Also a last note for anyone who wants to plant garlic or onions at their house. Consider this newsletter your alarm clock to do so. If you hit the snooze button many more weekends, the plants will suffer in their final harvested size. Both are easy to grow and all you need for garlic seed is a clove that is sitting on your counter. Toss it in the ground about 3-4” deep.
Marie
Marie,
Thanks for this update about the Sawmill community garden visioning process.
I've been watering the beds planted with garlic and the hairy vetch (covered with leaves). I've spent 2-3 hours turning over the soil ... creating the last bed between the stakes you posted. Still need to turn in some mushroom compost in that bed. Two bags of compost are sitting near the trellis.
I haven't planted any seeds ... but we have seeds to plant.
This morning I spoke with Pepe about installing the chain link fence around the garden. He said he will do it .... hopefully later this week.
I tried to attach the soaker hose to the faucet but it's too tight. Maybe I can get Pepe to attach it.
So there's plenty of space for more planting ..... generally in the beds on the south side of the garden.
I suppose the next thing ..... building a new compost bin ..... and carting away the old compost pile.
Lora
You see at about 31 degrees, you will lose all your summer plants (peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, melons, etc) to Jack Frost. But, and this is a big but, the fall crops are just hitting their stride at those temps. By fall crops I am talking broccoli, radishes, sweet turnips, salad mix, lettuces, and carrots. And I think all those crops actually start to taste better with the cooler weather.
That is due to the fact that with cooler weather, starches turn into sugars and the result is sweeter radishes, yummier lettuce, and candy carrots. All good things. This weather is also our last chance to get spring lettuce planted.
That was the question we grappled with last summer. The answer was to run trials to see when exactly the lettuce died after transplant due to the weather being in hospitable. And what we found shocked the heck out of me. That if we plant baby lettuce in November, into black plastic and cover it with row cover, that lettuce will sit there until late winter/early spring.
At that point it will take off and be ready way before any lettuce planted in 2009. The other thing I love about it is no weeding since it is growing through the winter, and the flavor is insane. This lettuce is in the field for close to 4 months. In that time the leaves get a bit thicker, but they are sweet and totally tasty. Love them.
Also a last note for anyone who wants to plant garlic or onions at their house. Consider this newsletter your alarm clock to do so. If you hit the snooze button many more weekends, the plants will suffer in their final harvested size. Both are easy to grow and all you need for garlic seed is a clove that is sitting on your counter. Toss it in the ground about 3-4” deep.
Marie
Marie,
Thanks for this update about the Sawmill community garden visioning process.
I've been watering the beds planted with garlic and the hairy vetch (covered with leaves). I've spent 2-3 hours turning over the soil ... creating the last bed between the stakes you posted. Still need to turn in some mushroom compost in that bed. Two bags of compost are sitting near the trellis.
I haven't planted any seeds ... but we have seeds to plant.
This morning I spoke with Pepe about installing the chain link fence around the garden. He said he will do it .... hopefully later this week.
I tried to attach the soaker hose to the faucet but it's too tight. Maybe I can get Pepe to attach it.
So there's plenty of space for more planting ..... generally in the beds on the south side of the garden.
I suppose the next thing ..... building a new compost bin ..... and carting away the old compost pile.
Lora
from January
another resource: http://www.dukecityfix.com/group/urbanfarmers
localfoodnm.org
I also registered at gardenersguild.org as a member of The Plot Thickens, but also as a landscape designer. I will copy you on the summary I send to them that Christianna Cappelle asked for at the meeting.
Next meeting of Ag. Collab: Feb. 11, Alternative Irrigation Methods @Mr.Cog building (white columned, on Copper, across from Farmer's Market park)
Agriculture Collaborative Meeting: The Buzz Around Community Gardens, Jan. 14
Speakers
Wade Patterson, Buzz Action on 8th and Summer, and Director of Arts and Community Dev. at Harwood Art Center.
Buzz has 4 plots (originally 9x3 each) that are designated for neighborhood picking, anyone who wanders in or is hungry, etc. These are tended by volunteers (as all other plot is assigned to a paying member who tends by his/herself) and a sign directs one to the plots and asks that they take only what they need and leave the rest for others. He says it works fine and reduces stealing from private plots.
Buzz has a management committee and a contract w/Dory the land owner. They relied heavily on the Wasatch Handbook about community gardens which is available online. They had straw bale raised beds, but will replace them with some kind of stone/concrete this year (3rd season) as the bales are good for only 2 seasons. After building, they had specified planting days so people could come together and share extra plants, etc. They had a first year budget of $3000 to pay for water from the neighbor and their entire water bill and materials, etc., much of which was donated.
The second season they got a grant for $10,000 from the MRA plan Education Committee (administered by the Sawmill Community Land Trust). With this money they hired a garden manager and organized events and education for the space to gain community support even if people did not garden there.*"important and critical"
Wade also stresses that an affiliation with a non-profit and/or an existing entity is recommended to remain sustainable, such as a church, community center, school, etc. for land and water security, storage, and a possibility for grants. The plot fees help with some of the cost, but could never cover them all for a garden this size.
They have started to collect rain water from a neighbor's roof; did a worm-composting bin art/education project with Wells Park CC after-school program;
had potlucks and workshops to bring people in to build "social capital" and "social sustainability." Although he said they put out flyers for the workshops, I did not hear about them in any way. So I want to contact him about this.
My take on Buzz: since they have land insecurity (3 year contract w/Dory, yearly renewal), I think Harwood, Wade, etc might be interested in considering the land across 15th for a permanent home. I think us developing that property is way beyond our scope, especially after hearing all about committees, grants, managers, etc.
The way to get more involvement for The Plot Thickens is to be hyper-local and more communicative with the neighbors in a very small radius. With SCLT developing a huge garden and the existence of Buzz, I think we should not try to compete with them, but add what only a small, non-bureaucratic entity can. And what is this you say? let's discuss it!!
Also let's check out their worm-composting bins.
John Bulten, Director of East Central Ministries, community development through urban farming
eastcentralministries.org
Garden is N of central @123 Vermont St NE, behind a house that was donated, in operation for 7 years. Let's check it out together.
They manufacture ollas which are porous clay containers to be buried up to the neck for watering, at 420 Virginia St SE.
Their focus is on "building community with purpose," "raising up indigenous leaders" and kids. That neighborhood has 82% rental housing; the population is really transient. Some years are more successful than others.
They have a greenhouse that was converted from a carport. They have chickens, solar panels, often go to Farmer's Market, have a tutoring program for the kids in school. They have all these projects including the olla-making to increase community involvement, provide jobs, keep kids and adults busy and engaged in positive activities. They have worm composting with help from Soilutions.
They have a food co-op that costs $15/month for a family share with 2 hours of volunteer work. Families pick up food weekly. They distribute 2-3 tons of food a week. Obviously they didn't grow it all!
They also have a housing co-op and a health clinic.
My take is, We need to check this place out even if just for inspiration.
Christianna Cappelle, manager of Gardeners Guild, new location 4012 Central SE, 268-2719, library, exchange, resource center and store with super cute garden stuff and books to help operating costs. In existence for 5 years, a gathering, social space, online support, organizing "Albuquerque Garden Exchange" network for info, team visits, tours, food, etc., a clearinghouse, collecting point.
More stuff
a garden registry is being constructed
a garden at schools registry is being constructed
Susan from Rio Grande Community Farm is organizing the next community garden tour.
garden accessibility for all ages, needs, etc
Rebecca Dakota, independent video producer, wants to make a movie about growing food and needs funding sources/ideas. 858-1868
Hank Bruce, horticultural therapist and founder of Hunger Grow Away attended. hungergrowaway.com
many, many people were there; I haven't gotten the contact list yet.
I was interested in a program called "Kids Cooking," but did not see the person to talk with after.
And finally, a squash bug tip from Petie Mesquite, an Arizona garden personality:
use coyote squash pureed to spray all over squash plants to keep the squash bugs away. He swears it works. Lets try it.
localfoodnm.org
I also registered at gardenersguild.org as a member of The Plot Thickens, but also as a landscape designer. I will copy you on the summary I send to them that Christianna Cappelle asked for at the meeting.
Next meeting of Ag. Collab: Feb. 11, Alternative Irrigation Methods @Mr.Cog building (white columned, on Copper, across from Farmer's Market park)
Agriculture Collaborative Meeting: The Buzz Around Community Gardens, Jan. 14
Speakers
Wade Patterson, Buzz Action on 8th and Summer, and Director of Arts and Community Dev. at Harwood Art Center.
Buzz has 4 plots (originally 9x3 each) that are designated for neighborhood picking, anyone who wanders in or is hungry, etc. These are tended by volunteers (as all other plot is assigned to a paying member who tends by his/herself) and a sign directs one to the plots and asks that they take only what they need and leave the rest for others. He says it works fine and reduces stealing from private plots.
Buzz has a management committee and a contract w/Dory the land owner. They relied heavily on the Wasatch Handbook about community gardens which is available online. They had straw bale raised beds, but will replace them with some kind of stone/concrete this year (3rd season) as the bales are good for only 2 seasons. After building, they had specified planting days so people could come together and share extra plants, etc. They had a first year budget of $3000 to pay for water from the neighbor and their entire water bill and materials, etc., much of which was donated.
The second season they got a grant for $10,000 from the MRA plan Education Committee (administered by the Sawmill Community Land Trust). With this money they hired a garden manager and organized events and education for the space to gain community support even if people did not garden there.*"important and critical"
Wade also stresses that an affiliation with a non-profit and/or an existing entity is recommended to remain sustainable, such as a church, community center, school, etc. for land and water security, storage, and a possibility for grants. The plot fees help with some of the cost, but could never cover them all for a garden this size.
They have started to collect rain water from a neighbor's roof; did a worm-composting bin art/education project with Wells Park CC after-school program;
had potlucks and workshops to bring people in to build "social capital" and "social sustainability." Although he said they put out flyers for the workshops, I did not hear about them in any way. So I want to contact him about this.
My take on Buzz: since they have land insecurity (3 year contract w/Dory, yearly renewal), I think Harwood, Wade, etc might be interested in considering the land across 15th for a permanent home. I think us developing that property is way beyond our scope, especially after hearing all about committees, grants, managers, etc.
The way to get more involvement for The Plot Thickens is to be hyper-local and more communicative with the neighbors in a very small radius. With SCLT developing a huge garden and the existence of Buzz, I think we should not try to compete with them, but add what only a small, non-bureaucratic entity can. And what is this you say? let's discuss it!!
Also let's check out their worm-composting bins.
John Bulten, Director of East Central Ministries, community development through urban farming
eastcentralministries.org
Garden is N of central @123 Vermont St NE, behind a house that was donated, in operation for 7 years. Let's check it out together.
They manufacture ollas which are porous clay containers to be buried up to the neck for watering, at 420 Virginia St SE.
Their focus is on "building community with purpose," "raising up indigenous leaders" and kids. That neighborhood has 82% rental housing; the population is really transient. Some years are more successful than others.
They have a greenhouse that was converted from a carport. They have chickens, solar panels, often go to Farmer's Market, have a tutoring program for the kids in school. They have all these projects including the olla-making to increase community involvement, provide jobs, keep kids and adults busy and engaged in positive activities. They have worm composting with help from Soilutions.
They have a food co-op that costs $15/month for a family share with 2 hours of volunteer work. Families pick up food weekly. They distribute 2-3 tons of food a week. Obviously they didn't grow it all!
They also have a housing co-op and a health clinic.
My take is, We need to check this place out even if just for inspiration.
Christianna Cappelle, manager of Gardeners Guild, new location 4012 Central SE, 268-2719, library, exchange, resource center and store with super cute garden stuff and books to help operating costs. In existence for 5 years, a gathering, social space, online support, organizing "Albuquerque Garden Exchange" network for info, team visits, tours, food, etc., a clearinghouse, collecting point.
More stuff
a garden registry is being constructed
a garden at schools registry is being constructed
Susan from Rio Grande Community Farm is organizing the next community garden tour.
garden accessibility for all ages, needs, etc
Rebecca Dakota, independent video producer, wants to make a movie about growing food and needs funding sources/ideas. 858-1868
Hank Bruce, horticultural therapist and founder of Hunger Grow Away attended. hungergrowaway.com
many, many people were there; I haven't gotten the contact list yet.
I was interested in a program called "Kids Cooking," but did not see the person to talk with after.
And finally, a squash bug tip from Petie Mesquite, an Arizona garden personality:
use coyote squash pureed to spray all over squash plants to keep the squash bugs away. He swears it works. Lets try it.
june +
June is a good time to plant hard squash and swiss chard which are both on our wanted list.
wonderful news about your efforts on that mean grass!! Thank you!
I will have a friend from out of town on Saturday, so I don't know if I can get her to work or stay long, but we will be there.
oh, yes, I can water Thursday.
my friend Andrea helped alot on Friday. she is hoping to come over lots more this summer since she is a teacher off for the summer.
we planted 4 sweet 100 tomatoes, cilantro, basil, bee balm, strawberry, oregano, garden sage and cleome.
marie
Gardenistas ---
Lots of things happening in our garden. Marie was here with a friend on Friday and they planted new things (tomatoes and other stuff) and harvested the garlic. You will find lots and lots of garlic drying on the fence for your kitchen.
And Constantine came over this afternoon and we dug out weeds like crazy. Last night I took the weed whacker and cut down the tall grass outside of the garden fence. And today I dug out a lot of that very stubborn grass on the north side of the garden. Constantine put his muscle into digging that stubborn grass out in the NW corner of the garden, including a lot of the grass and weeds that were overtaking the NW bed.
Thank you Constantine!
I forgot to mention that I'm going to be in Boulder, Colorado on Wed/Thurs/Friday this week attending a conference. Can anyone stop by and water those evenings?
What about a potluck dinner and some gardening this Saturday (6/6) at 6 PM? Sounds like an auspicious time for a gathering. 666.
Let me know -- and bring a friend!
Lora
wonderful news about your efforts on that mean grass!! Thank you!
I will have a friend from out of town on Saturday, so I don't know if I can get her to work or stay long, but we will be there.
oh, yes, I can water Thursday.
my friend Andrea helped alot on Friday. she is hoping to come over lots more this summer since she is a teacher off for the summer.
we planted 4 sweet 100 tomatoes, cilantro, basil, bee balm, strawberry, oregano, garden sage and cleome.
marie
Gardenistas ---
Lots of things happening in our garden. Marie was here with a friend on Friday and they planted new things (tomatoes and other stuff) and harvested the garlic. You will find lots and lots of garlic drying on the fence for your kitchen.
And Constantine came over this afternoon and we dug out weeds like crazy. Last night I took the weed whacker and cut down the tall grass outside of the garden fence. And today I dug out a lot of that very stubborn grass on the north side of the garden. Constantine put his muscle into digging that stubborn grass out in the NW corner of the garden, including a lot of the grass and weeds that were overtaking the NW bed.
Thank you Constantine!
I forgot to mention that I'm going to be in Boulder, Colorado on Wed/Thurs/Friday this week attending a conference. Can anyone stop by and water those evenings?
What about a potluck dinner and some gardening this Saturday (6/6) at 6 PM? Sounds like an auspicious time for a gathering. 666.
Let me know -- and bring a friend!
Lora
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