Sunday, August 30, 2009
Friday, August 7, 2009
about purlsane
http://www.susunweed.com/herbal_ezine/January08/healingwise.htm
http://landscaping.about.com/cs/weedsdiseases/a/purslane.htm
http://asonomagarden.wordpress.com/2008/08/08/eating-purslane-is-so-trendy/
With purslane aficionados the preference is in eating fresh young plants, and especially young leaves and tender stem tips. The taste is similar to watercress or spinach. Use purslane in salads or on sandwiches instead of lettuce or pickles. Next time order a ham and purslane on rye. Purslane can also be cooked as a potherb, steamed, stir-fried or pureed. It tends to get a bit slimy if overcooked. It can be substituted for spinach in many recipes. Seeds are also edible.
Before grazing in your yard be sure to wash the purslane thoroughly and make sure it is free of any pesticides. As with any new food, don't over indulge. For recipes go to http://www.prairielandcsa.org/recipes/purslane.html .
http://landscaping.about.com/cs/weedsdiseases/a/purslane.htm
http://asonomagarden.wordpress.com/2008/08/08/eating-purslane-is-so-trendy/
With purslane aficionados the preference is in eating fresh young plants, and especially young leaves and tender stem tips. The taste is similar to watercress or spinach. Use purslane in salads or on sandwiches instead of lettuce or pickles. Next time order a ham and purslane on rye. Purslane can also be cooked as a potherb, steamed, stir-fried or pureed. It tends to get a bit slimy if overcooked. It can be substituted for spinach in many recipes. Seeds are also edible.
Before grazing in your yard be sure to wash the purslane thoroughly and make sure it is free of any pesticides. As with any new food, don't over indulge. For recipes go to http://www.prairielandcsa.org/recipes/purslane.html .
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
August 5 09
I installed the new solid hoses to separate the watering beds. I did not have time to lay the hose carefully, but they are more or less in place.
Also I trimmed some more flowers so more sun can get to the veggies but not the ground. Things are looking basically good.
The weeds are looking too good. especially the grass. Please drop by and check out the garden for a few minutes and pick some weeds. I propose spraying that grass with Roundup in consecutive treatments now while it is hot and growing, at least outside the fence area and any place it is not too near any plants.
There is an eggplant, some tomatoes and some more blooms hoping to turn into fruit.
Here are things that always need addressing:
water
weeds
mulch
composting
nutrients
planting/planning for the next cycle.
Also I trimmed some more flowers so more sun can get to the veggies but not the ground. Things are looking basically good.
The weeds are looking too good. especially the grass. Please drop by and check out the garden for a few minutes and pick some weeds. I propose spraying that grass with Roundup in consecutive treatments now while it is hot and growing, at least outside the fence area and any place it is not too near any plants.
There is an eggplant, some tomatoes and some more blooms hoping to turn into fruit.
Here are things that always need addressing:
water
weeds
mulch
composting
nutrients
planting/planning for the next cycle.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
jul 23
did some more clearing the tops of flowers to let sun get to plants, but still shade the soil.
since it is time to plant, Andrea and I put some more seeds down since our last ones did nothing. hopefully with the new watering set-up (not yet installed) these will take.
always weeds.
oh and I wanted to mention about the purslane. it is edible so I have not been taking it out. got to start eating it! free greens!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portulaca_oleracea
since it is time to plant, Andrea and I put some more seeds down since our last ones did nothing. hopefully with the new watering set-up (not yet installed) these will take.
always weeds.
oh and I wanted to mention about the purslane. it is edible so I have not been taking it out. got to start eating it! free greens!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portulaca_oleracea
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
dark moon 7/22: make a wish
Lunar Living lecture at the Hubbell House
Saturday July 18, Zoe Edrington-Wilcox (mothernaturegardens.com)
after dark moon, 1st Q begins (Water), energy is rising up from the earth, time for nurturing, planting, fertilization; early stage of life.
with the waxing moon, into the 2nd Q (Fire), time to transplant, energy and courage are strong now; the weight of fruit is at its heaviest, so harvest.
the full moon comes and marks the transition to 3rd Q (Air). Time to turn inward. Shed what is extra. Plant only root crops as energy is going back down into the earth with the waning moon.
In the 4th Q (Earth), no planting, time for rest and repair, energy is in the roots now.
PS I won a raffle prize of "Household Product Management Wheel" from the county Water Resources program; consult the new expert, me, for any disposal questions about automotive, paint, aerosols, cleaners, batteries, moth balls, etc.
Saturday July 18, Zoe Edrington-Wilcox (mothernaturegardens.com)
after dark moon, 1st Q begins (Water), energy is rising up from the earth, time for nurturing, planting, fertilization; early stage of life.
with the waxing moon, into the 2nd Q (Fire), time to transplant, energy and courage are strong now; the weight of fruit is at its heaviest, so harvest.
the full moon comes and marks the transition to 3rd Q (Air). Time to turn inward. Shed what is extra. Plant only root crops as energy is going back down into the earth with the waning moon.
In the 4th Q (Earth), no planting, time for rest and repair, energy is in the roots now.
PS I won a raffle prize of "Household Product Management Wheel" from the county Water Resources program; consult the new expert, me, for any disposal questions about automotive, paint, aerosols, cleaners, batteries, moth balls, etc.
monday July 20th surprise
Claire and Marie make a quick stop in the morning to do some weeding. The stuff that I suspected was parsley from seed grew into carrots! and they were perfect and delicious.
they were from throwaway seeds that I threw into the ground last fall I think.
We also decided with Lora that the hoses needed to be split up to even out the watering. Claire offered to buy the new hoses needed and I think the 4-way splitters for the hose bibs are already there.
Peace
Monday, July 13, 2009
Thursday, July 9, 2009
from Adaptation, bees pollinating flowers
By simply doing what they're designed to do, something large and magnificent happens. In this sense, they show us how to live. How the only barometer you have is your heart. How when you spot your flower, you can't let anything get in your way.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
watering
Squash and other summer vegetables don't require a daily watering unless the temperatures are above 90 degrees. When the temperatures are above 80 degrees, a good soaking three times a week is sufficient.
With cooler temperatures, feel the soil first before watering. If it feels moist, do not water. Our temperatures were below normal the first two weeks of June. This was a major contributor to today's blossom end rot problem.
Our summer weather pattern will cycle through periods of mild, warm and hot spells. You need to vary your watering frequency week to week. Also, I prefer to water in morning on a rising temperature, rather than in the late afternoon or in the early evening hours when the plants stay soggy until the next day.
With cooler temperatures, feel the soil first before watering. If it feels moist, do not water. Our temperatures were below normal the first two weeks of June. This was a major contributor to today's blossom end rot problem.
Our summer weather pattern will cycle through periods of mild, warm and hot spells. You need to vary your watering frequency week to week. Also, I prefer to water in morning on a rising temperature, rather than in the late afternoon or in the early evening hours when the plants stay soggy until the next day.
recipe from Scibona, S
Here’s something I like, based on a recipe by Marcella Hazan: a tomato salad that follows the ideal of preparing an ingredient so that it just tastes vibrantly of itself.
In a shot glass, mix a teaspoon of salt with four crushed cloves of garlic. Fill with red wine vinegar and let steep for thirty minutes. Throw out the garlic. Slice three large tomatoes into thick rounds and arrange them in overlapping layers on a broad, shallow dish. Tear a dozen leaves of basil over them, add fresh grindings of black pepper, pour on the vinegar, and cover with olive oil. Do not use cheap oil, yo.
Do not make this unless you have real homegrown or farmers’ market tomatoes, in season. Use a few different varieties, of different colors, if you please. Serve with bread to soak up the juice.
Most people to whom I’ve served this refer to what they’re eating as “tomatoes”—not a salad or a dish of any kind. Nothing gets in the way. It’s a plate of tomatoes, emphatically so.
In a shot glass, mix a teaspoon of salt with four crushed cloves of garlic. Fill with red wine vinegar and let steep for thirty minutes. Throw out the garlic. Slice three large tomatoes into thick rounds and arrange them in overlapping layers on a broad, shallow dish. Tear a dozen leaves of basil over them, add fresh grindings of black pepper, pour on the vinegar, and cover with olive oil. Do not use cheap oil, yo.
Do not make this unless you have real homegrown or farmers’ market tomatoes, in season. Use a few different varieties, of different colors, if you please. Serve with bread to soak up the juice.
Most people to whom I’ve served this refer to what they’re eating as “tomatoes”—not a salad or a dish of any kind. Nothing gets in the way. It’s a plate of tomatoes, emphatically so.
july
• In the vegetable garden, garlic and onions are ready when their tops bend over. Let them dry in a shady spot for a couple of weeks, then remove tops and store in paper bags in a cool pantry, or leave tops on and braid them for garlic and onion ristras.
• Stake fast-growing plants as needed before they begin to flop over.
• Continue to remove weeds and unwanted grasses. They go to seed faster in hot weather.
• To reduce watering and to help cool the soil around your plants, continue to mulch. Add mulch where plants are drying out too fast.
Garden Tip!!! This is a good time to empty the compost bin and restart it. You'll get a good start on a new batch of compost that will winter over. Compost that is too hot to use on plants at this time can be dug into an unplanted area, or it can be set aside to finish composting. Keep stored compost covered so rain won't leach out nutrients.
Watering. Keep adjusting your watering schedule for hot weather. Generally, water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days deeply. Water established beds weekly. This will not be adequate for new plantings or soil that has little organic matter.
WATERING TIP!!! Water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days to a depth of three feet. A soaker hose running at the dripline of these plants will do the job. Don't fertilize them any more this year as that would encourage tender growth when the plants need to begin preparing for winter dormancy.
Pruning. If you haven't completed pruning of your spring-flowering shrubs, be sure to do it by July 15th.
Planting. After the 15th, you might try planting another row of green beans for harvest in early September.
• Stake fast-growing plants as needed before they begin to flop over.
• Continue to remove weeds and unwanted grasses. They go to seed faster in hot weather.
• To reduce watering and to help cool the soil around your plants, continue to mulch. Add mulch where plants are drying out too fast.
Garden Tip!!! This is a good time to empty the compost bin and restart it. You'll get a good start on a new batch of compost that will winter over. Compost that is too hot to use on plants at this time can be dug into an unplanted area, or it can be set aside to finish composting. Keep stored compost covered so rain won't leach out nutrients.
Watering. Keep adjusting your watering schedule for hot weather. Generally, water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days deeply. Water established beds weekly. This will not be adequate for new plantings or soil that has little organic matter.
WATERING TIP!!! Water trees and shrubs every 10 to 14 days to a depth of three feet. A soaker hose running at the dripline of these plants will do the job. Don't fertilize them any more this year as that would encourage tender growth when the plants need to begin preparing for winter dormancy.
Pruning. If you haven't completed pruning of your spring-flowering shrubs, be sure to do it by July 15th.
Planting. After the 15th, you might try planting another row of green beans for harvest in early September.
Friday, June 19, 2009
June coolness
really warm temps have yet to arrive. The weather, though weird, offers opportunity to establish new plants in the garden. The milder conditions will afford an easier time if planting more than two or three additions.
For those having trouble with weeks-old plants, it's not just you. Overcast skies keep air and soil temperatures cool, which halts tomato and pepper growth. Watch watering carefully to prevent root rot. Mulch to reduce watering and prevent the stress of dramatic swings in soil moisture.
For those having trouble with weeks-old plants, it's not just you. Overcast skies keep air and soil temperatures cool, which halts tomato and pepper growth. Watch watering carefully to prevent root rot. Mulch to reduce watering and prevent the stress of dramatic swings in soil moisture.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Greetings fellow gardeners!
I'm somewhat new to the garden so I haven't met all of you yet. I have been working in the garden with Marie, doing a lot of weeding and helping out with the irrigation situation--which it appears we have straightened out thanks to the new hoses.
Sunday evening I went over and planted a few new things:
- In the plot where there previously was garlic, I put two acorn squash plants. I also added some bunching onions, leeks, and chives near the onion plan that was already there.
- I put a third squash plant in the far back plot, but it and the other vine plants (squash? melon? cucumber?) don't seem to be doing too well back there.
- In the section with the dying poppies and peppers that Marie recently added, I put two creeping thyme plants.
from Farmer Monte, mid-June
For those of you growing at home. Now is the time to be thinking about those Fall crops. It is the inherent contradiction of growing food— you plan for your hot crops in the coldest time of year, and cold crops in the hottest time of year.
Broccoli, radishes, spinach, lettuces, chards, greens, and cabbage. Now is the time to secure seeds or look for a place who will have transplants. We will not be planting until just after the 4th of July, but we have to prepare now.
Broccoli, radishes, spinach, lettuces, chards, greens, and cabbage. Now is the time to secure seeds or look for a place who will have transplants. We will not be planting until just after the 4th of July, but we have to prepare now.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
tomato tips
Moisture: Moist, but not waterlogged.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy feeder. Use starter solution for transplants. Sidedress 1 to 2 weeks before the first tomato ripens with 1-1/2 ounces 33-0-0 per 10-foot row. Sidedress again 2 weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5; repeat 1 month later.
Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to get a good start.
Growing tomatoes in wire cages is a method gaining in popularity among gardeners because of its simplicity. Cage-growing allows the tomato plant to grow in its natural manner, but keeps the fruit and leaves off the ground, offering the advantages of staking as well. Using wire cages requires a large initial expenditure and a large storage area, but many gardeners feel that the freedom from pruning and staking is worth it. The cages, if heavy duty, will last many years. Be sure to get fencing with at least 6" spacing between wires so that you can get your hand inside to harvest the tomatoes. If tomato plants in wire cages are pruned at all, once is enough; prune to three or four main stems. Wire-cage tomatoes develop a heavy foliage cover, reducing sunscald on fruits and giving more leeway when bottom leaves become blighted and have to be removed. Many staked plants are nearly naked by late summer. Caged plants are less prone to the spread of disease from plant handling, since they do not have open wounds and must be handled less frequently than staked plants. However, it helps to space the plants somewhat further apart (three feet is good) to allow good air circulation between plants; humidity is higher because of the foliage density, and diseases such as late blight spread rapidly in humid situations. If well-nourished and cared for, caged tomatoes can produce exceptional harvests and make up for the extra space with high production. This type of culture is especially suited to indeterminate varieties.
Harvest fully vine-ripened but still firm. Most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in shade. Light is not necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Some green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55ºF), moist (90% relative humidity) place. When desired, ripen fruits at 70ºF.
Approximate yields: 15 to 45 pounds per 10-foot row.
Amount to Raise: 20 to 25 pounds per person if used fresh; 25 to 40 pounds for canning.
Storage: Medium-cool (50 to 70° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 1 to 3 weeks for green tomatoes. Cool (45 to 50° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 4 to 7 days for ripe tomatoes.
Preservation: Can or freeze as sauces or in chunks (whole or quartered), peeled.
Fertilizer Needs: Heavy feeder. Use starter solution for transplants. Sidedress 1 to 2 weeks before the first tomato ripens with 1-1/2 ounces 33-0-0 per 10-foot row. Sidedress again 2 weeks after the first ripe tomato with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5; repeat 1 month later.
Do not remove the containers if they are peat or paper pots, but open or tear off one side to allow roots to get a good start.
Growing tomatoes in wire cages is a method gaining in popularity among gardeners because of its simplicity. Cage-growing allows the tomato plant to grow in its natural manner, but keeps the fruit and leaves off the ground, offering the advantages of staking as well. Using wire cages requires a large initial expenditure and a large storage area, but many gardeners feel that the freedom from pruning and staking is worth it. The cages, if heavy duty, will last many years. Be sure to get fencing with at least 6" spacing between wires so that you can get your hand inside to harvest the tomatoes. If tomato plants in wire cages are pruned at all, once is enough; prune to three or four main stems. Wire-cage tomatoes develop a heavy foliage cover, reducing sunscald on fruits and giving more leeway when bottom leaves become blighted and have to be removed. Many staked plants are nearly naked by late summer. Caged plants are less prone to the spread of disease from plant handling, since they do not have open wounds and must be handled less frequently than staked plants. However, it helps to space the plants somewhat further apart (three feet is good) to allow good air circulation between plants; humidity is higher because of the foliage density, and diseases such as late blight spread rapidly in humid situations. If well-nourished and cared for, caged tomatoes can produce exceptional harvests and make up for the extra space with high production. This type of culture is especially suited to indeterminate varieties.
Harvest fully vine-ripened but still firm. Most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in shade. Light is not necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Some green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55ºF), moist (90% relative humidity) place. When desired, ripen fruits at 70ºF.
Approximate yields: 15 to 45 pounds per 10-foot row.
Amount to Raise: 20 to 25 pounds per person if used fresh; 25 to 40 pounds for canning.
Storage: Medium-cool (50 to 70° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 1 to 3 weeks for green tomatoes. Cool (45 to 50° F), moist (90% relative humidity) conditions for 4 to 7 days for ripe tomatoes.
Preservation: Can or freeze as sauces or in chunks (whole or quartered), peeled.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
also check first june entry
labeled june +
weeds to pull:
grass
elm
puncture vine/goatheads
purslane (even though it is edible)
bind weed
pigweed (it looks a bit like the red amaranth, but its green)
weeds to pull:
grass
elm
puncture vine/goatheads
purslane (even though it is edible)
bind weed
pigweed (it looks a bit like the red amaranth, but its green)
more plantings
There is not much of a map this year since we want to plant densely. I think the important thing is to not plant the tomatoes in the same place as last year. which was mostly back/middle right. year before was front/middle right.
Lora planted some corn on a ~10' section of the northside fence just down from the front. I will plant some seeds for vines adjacent to that. This should be the only area that needs hand watering.
The seeds I got are Cardinal Climber, Black-Eyed Susan vine, and Scarlet Hyacinth bean. If anyone wants, there are extra seeds.
Notes on things already planted
Rue/Ruta graveolens: a shrubby evergreen w/blue-green fern-like foliage and yellow flowers. Leaves used for antiseptic and disinfectant. Handling may irritate sensitive skin. It could have been cut back by half in spring for new lush growth. and it can be shaped and sized during the season, especially if it is getting in the way of the path or other plants. deters aphids and other pests. should not be planted near cukes, cabbage, basil or sage. oops.
Lemon mint/Monarda citriodora? I have the label, not sure about the plant. annual or biennial w/lemon scent foliage and large pink flowers spring to summer.
Green Zebra Striped tomato, indeterminate (grows and grows) light/dark green striped skin. great in salads, zingy flavor. we had some last year. delicious.
there are nasturtiums growing. they have edible flowers, are good companions to tomatoes and fast growers. there are morning glories at the fence corner near the front/east hose bib. guide them to climb in the fence and avoid stepping on them. seems to be 3 different plants.
also bee balm and cleome planted for bees and companions. and pretty.
some zinnia volunteers have appeared. and sunflowers.
another strawberry. although struggling somewhat.
plenty of room. keep planting. and check the companion charts just in case.
Lora planted some corn on a ~10' section of the northside fence just down from the front. I will plant some seeds for vines adjacent to that. This should be the only area that needs hand watering.
The seeds I got are Cardinal Climber, Black-Eyed Susan vine, and Scarlet Hyacinth bean. If anyone wants, there are extra seeds.
Notes on things already planted
Rue/Ruta graveolens: a shrubby evergreen w/blue-green fern-like foliage and yellow flowers. Leaves used for antiseptic and disinfectant. Handling may irritate sensitive skin. It could have been cut back by half in spring for new lush growth. and it can be shaped and sized during the season, especially if it is getting in the way of the path or other plants. deters aphids and other pests. should not be planted near cukes, cabbage, basil or sage. oops.
Lemon mint/Monarda citriodora? I have the label, not sure about the plant. annual or biennial w/lemon scent foliage and large pink flowers spring to summer.
Green Zebra Striped tomato, indeterminate (grows and grows) light/dark green striped skin. great in salads, zingy flavor. we had some last year. delicious.
there are nasturtiums growing. they have edible flowers, are good companions to tomatoes and fast growers. there are morning glories at the fence corner near the front/east hose bib. guide them to climb in the fence and avoid stepping on them. seems to be 3 different plants.
also bee balm and cleome planted for bees and companions. and pretty.
some zinnia volunteers have appeared. and sunflowers.
another strawberry. although struggling somewhat.
plenty of room. keep planting. and check the companion charts just in case.
irrigation! and plantings
After some research last week, (pulling up hose, poking holes, etc.), it was deemed the flat hose should be replaced with round hose.
Claire got 2 25' lengths of hose and Andrea and I installed it snaking around the existing plants and moving the other hose too. We used the staples, but did not bury it.
The new lengths are on the east hosebib only. They water less than the hose closer to the source so we might make another split on the bib and install some plain hose to the new and disconnect it from the old. make sense?
The west hosebib over waters the back right plot so we have to try to water slower and longer.
Constantine and I, separately have the idea that the back left plot and back right border areas could be used for digging in composting method.
PLANTINGS new and surprising
back right has some cabbage/broccoli things, a tomato, flowers and some zucchini and/or cukes
red lettuce is supposed to produce all season so don't take it out by the roots.
some green chiles were put in middle left and some parsley is coming up there too.
tomatoes: sweet 100s, heirloom (zebra stripe, goliath, black/purple something), romas and others?
we have been taking out the cover crop, hairy vetch, in places where it is overgrowing and letting it dry and then crumbling it up as mulch. who knows if this is preserving the benefits. digging it in would def. work.
marie
Claire got 2 25' lengths of hose and Andrea and I installed it snaking around the existing plants and moving the other hose too. We used the staples, but did not bury it.
The new lengths are on the east hosebib only. They water less than the hose closer to the source so we might make another split on the bib and install some plain hose to the new and disconnect it from the old. make sense?
The west hosebib over waters the back right plot so we have to try to water slower and longer.
Constantine and I, separately have the idea that the back left plot and back right border areas could be used for digging in composting method.
PLANTINGS new and surprising
back right has some cabbage/broccoli things, a tomato, flowers and some zucchini and/or cukes
red lettuce is supposed to produce all season so don't take it out by the roots.
some green chiles were put in middle left and some parsley is coming up there too.
tomatoes: sweet 100s, heirloom (zebra stripe, goliath, black/purple something), romas and others?
we have been taking out the cover crop, hairy vetch, in places where it is overgrowing and letting it dry and then crumbling it up as mulch. who knows if this is preserving the benefits. digging it in would def. work.
marie
Monday, June 8, 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
from October
Attached is a companion planting document that Hope found for us. I tried to cut it down to only the stuff that we talked about planting for next year.
I am going to try to dig up the parsley today, and over winter it inside. This month's Sunset magazine also says that now is the time to plant salad greens and sweet peas! if anyone wants to take that up. also time for wildflower seeds.
I think we could change the whole plot to be all rows parallel to the long sides instead of having rows going in 2 directions. The drip hoses will be long enough.
See you Sunday at 2pm to begin hard labor!
Marie
Here's what we wanted:
sweet peas
watermelon
tomatoes-heirloom, roma and cherry (marigold and basil companions)
watercress, chard
cukes
hard squash
parsley
beets
big onions
corn
garlic
Task List
stake out new beds
dig out beds
build up paths
winterize: cover crop and mulch
dec 21: plant garlic
I am going to try to dig up the parsley today, and over winter it inside. This month's Sunset magazine also says that now is the time to plant salad greens and sweet peas! if anyone wants to take that up. also time for wildflower seeds.
I think we could change the whole plot to be all rows parallel to the long sides instead of having rows going in 2 directions. The drip hoses will be long enough.
See you Sunday at 2pm to begin hard labor!
Marie
Here's what we wanted:
sweet peas
watermelon
tomatoes-heirloom, roma and cherry (marigold and basil companions)
watercress, chard
cukes
hard squash
parsley
beets
big onions
corn
garlic
Task List
stake out new beds
dig out beds
build up paths
winterize: cover crop and mulch
dec 21: plant garlic
more november
Yesterday I went to the Sawmill/Wells Park "visioning" workshop for the 1 acre community garden, led by a UNM CRP studio. And I met a neighbor, Justin, who, along with his partner, is interested in learning about our 15th St. activities.
here is a summary of what I know about the community garden and part of what happened at the meeting yesterday.
A UNM Community and Regional Planning studio approached the Sawmill Land Trust inquiring about a possible design project that they could take on for their semester (this Fall). SCLT said yes, our community garden. Their semester-end product will be a summary of recommendations to the Land Trust on our garden that the Land Trust will then adopt, adapt, research and implement in some form.
So last month's meeting was a summary of their research into community gardens that they had been conducting for the first half of the semester. They had only talked to about 15 residents of the represented neighborhoods (Sawmill and Wells Park) via a written survey.
Sunday was a workshop focussed on engaging the community residents and their ideas for what our garden should and could be.
tour of site (I did not attend.)
discussion
1. what is the purpose of a community garden
what are historical purposes for community gardens (attached)
2. who will use the garden?
who will grow there?
what are ways to be involved in the garden?
how does it fit into/connect to the the community?
what is the meaning of the garden?
3. what are our preferred purposes for the garden?
4. mission statement exercise (I left at this point. so I do not know what the mission statement is)
then they did some kind of drawing exercise.
From: Loralucero@aol.com
I watered by hand the two beds on the right side yesterday afternoon. I'll connect the soaker hose today and see how it works!!
Hi All,
Yesterday Lora and I worked on the new linear bed on the right side.
We finished weeding and digging in compost. Laid out the soaker hose on the front section. And planted garlic, beet seeds (will these grow? let's see), and hairy vetch cover in the front. We also seeded the back with hairy vetch and then covered both sections with leaf mulch.
So the lettuce and snow pea seeds and the spinach starts need to be planted. I have no idea what will make it! but we should find out.
they could be planted in the back section and another soaker laid there. if the peas make a go of it in the spring, we can use string to bring them to the fence for climbing or build another kind of structure then.
we can finish weeding and shaping the left side and also we need to either build a new compost area or buy a composter, for left front area in front of stakes.
and get rid of our weedy compost pile.
here is a summary of what I know about the community garden and part of what happened at the meeting yesterday.
A UNM Community and Regional Planning studio approached the Sawmill Land Trust inquiring about a possible design project that they could take on for their semester (this Fall). SCLT said yes, our community garden. Their semester-end product will be a summary of recommendations to the Land Trust on our garden that the Land Trust will then adopt, adapt, research and implement in some form.
So last month's meeting was a summary of their research into community gardens that they had been conducting for the first half of the semester. They had only talked to about 15 residents of the represented neighborhoods (Sawmill and Wells Park) via a written survey.
Sunday was a workshop focussed on engaging the community residents and their ideas for what our garden should and could be.
tour of site (I did not attend.)
discussion
1. what is the purpose of a community garden
what are historical purposes for community gardens (attached)
2. who will use the garden?
who will grow there?
what are ways to be involved in the garden?
how does it fit into/connect to the the community?
what is the meaning of the garden?
3. what are our preferred purposes for the garden?
4. mission statement exercise (I left at this point. so I do not know what the mission statement is)
then they did some kind of drawing exercise.
From: Loralucero@aol.com
I watered by hand the two beds on the right side yesterday afternoon. I'll connect the soaker hose today and see how it works!!
Hi All,
Yesterday Lora and I worked on the new linear bed on the right side.
We finished weeding and digging in compost. Laid out the soaker hose on the front section. And planted garlic, beet seeds (will these grow? let's see), and hairy vetch cover in the front. We also seeded the back with hairy vetch and then covered both sections with leaf mulch.
So the lettuce and snow pea seeds and the spinach starts need to be planted. I have no idea what will make it! but we should find out.
they could be planted in the back section and another soaker laid there. if the peas make a go of it in the spring, we can use string to bring them to the fence for climbing or build another kind of structure then.
we can finish weeding and shaping the left side and also we need to either build a new compost area or buy a composter, for left front area in front of stakes.
and get rid of our weedy compost pile.
from November
But back to the game over frost for a second. Most people and books only talk about one real frost date, the time when the weather drops below 32 degrees. But in NM, there is another huge frost date, the time when it gets down to 24/25 degrees. That is when the harvest stops.
You see at about 31 degrees, you will lose all your summer plants (peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, melons, etc) to Jack Frost. But, and this is a big but, the fall crops are just hitting their stride at those temps. By fall crops I am talking broccoli, radishes, sweet turnips, salad mix, lettuces, and carrots. And I think all those crops actually start to taste better with the cooler weather.
That is due to the fact that with cooler weather, starches turn into sugars and the result is sweeter radishes, yummier lettuce, and candy carrots. All good things. This weather is also our last chance to get spring lettuce planted.
That was the question we grappled with last summer. The answer was to run trials to see when exactly the lettuce died after transplant due to the weather being in hospitable. And what we found shocked the heck out of me. That if we plant baby lettuce in November, into black plastic and cover it with row cover, that lettuce will sit there until late winter/early spring.
At that point it will take off and be ready way before any lettuce planted in 2009. The other thing I love about it is no weeding since it is growing through the winter, and the flavor is insane. This lettuce is in the field for close to 4 months. In that time the leaves get a bit thicker, but they are sweet and totally tasty. Love them.
Also a last note for anyone who wants to plant garlic or onions at their house. Consider this newsletter your alarm clock to do so. If you hit the snooze button many more weekends, the plants will suffer in their final harvested size. Both are easy to grow and all you need for garlic seed is a clove that is sitting on your counter. Toss it in the ground about 3-4” deep.
Marie
Marie,
Thanks for this update about the Sawmill community garden visioning process.
I've been watering the beds planted with garlic and the hairy vetch (covered with leaves). I've spent 2-3 hours turning over the soil ... creating the last bed between the stakes you posted. Still need to turn in some mushroom compost in that bed. Two bags of compost are sitting near the trellis.
I haven't planted any seeds ... but we have seeds to plant.
This morning I spoke with Pepe about installing the chain link fence around the garden. He said he will do it .... hopefully later this week.
I tried to attach the soaker hose to the faucet but it's too tight. Maybe I can get Pepe to attach it.
So there's plenty of space for more planting ..... generally in the beds on the south side of the garden.
I suppose the next thing ..... building a new compost bin ..... and carting away the old compost pile.
Lora
You see at about 31 degrees, you will lose all your summer plants (peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, melons, etc) to Jack Frost. But, and this is a big but, the fall crops are just hitting their stride at those temps. By fall crops I am talking broccoli, radishes, sweet turnips, salad mix, lettuces, and carrots. And I think all those crops actually start to taste better with the cooler weather.
That is due to the fact that with cooler weather, starches turn into sugars and the result is sweeter radishes, yummier lettuce, and candy carrots. All good things. This weather is also our last chance to get spring lettuce planted.
That was the question we grappled with last summer. The answer was to run trials to see when exactly the lettuce died after transplant due to the weather being in hospitable. And what we found shocked the heck out of me. That if we plant baby lettuce in November, into black plastic and cover it with row cover, that lettuce will sit there until late winter/early spring.
At that point it will take off and be ready way before any lettuce planted in 2009. The other thing I love about it is no weeding since it is growing through the winter, and the flavor is insane. This lettuce is in the field for close to 4 months. In that time the leaves get a bit thicker, but they are sweet and totally tasty. Love them.
Also a last note for anyone who wants to plant garlic or onions at their house. Consider this newsletter your alarm clock to do so. If you hit the snooze button many more weekends, the plants will suffer in their final harvested size. Both are easy to grow and all you need for garlic seed is a clove that is sitting on your counter. Toss it in the ground about 3-4” deep.
Marie
Marie,
Thanks for this update about the Sawmill community garden visioning process.
I've been watering the beds planted with garlic and the hairy vetch (covered with leaves). I've spent 2-3 hours turning over the soil ... creating the last bed between the stakes you posted. Still need to turn in some mushroom compost in that bed. Two bags of compost are sitting near the trellis.
I haven't planted any seeds ... but we have seeds to plant.
This morning I spoke with Pepe about installing the chain link fence around the garden. He said he will do it .... hopefully later this week.
I tried to attach the soaker hose to the faucet but it's too tight. Maybe I can get Pepe to attach it.
So there's plenty of space for more planting ..... generally in the beds on the south side of the garden.
I suppose the next thing ..... building a new compost bin ..... and carting away the old compost pile.
Lora
from January
another resource: http://www.dukecityfix.com/group/urbanfarmers
localfoodnm.org
I also registered at gardenersguild.org as a member of The Plot Thickens, but also as a landscape designer. I will copy you on the summary I send to them that Christianna Cappelle asked for at the meeting.
Next meeting of Ag. Collab: Feb. 11, Alternative Irrigation Methods @Mr.Cog building (white columned, on Copper, across from Farmer's Market park)
Agriculture Collaborative Meeting: The Buzz Around Community Gardens, Jan. 14
Speakers
Wade Patterson, Buzz Action on 8th and Summer, and Director of Arts and Community Dev. at Harwood Art Center.
Buzz has 4 plots (originally 9x3 each) that are designated for neighborhood picking, anyone who wanders in or is hungry, etc. These are tended by volunteers (as all other plot is assigned to a paying member who tends by his/herself) and a sign directs one to the plots and asks that they take only what they need and leave the rest for others. He says it works fine and reduces stealing from private plots.
Buzz has a management committee and a contract w/Dory the land owner. They relied heavily on the Wasatch Handbook about community gardens which is available online. They had straw bale raised beds, but will replace them with some kind of stone/concrete this year (3rd season) as the bales are good for only 2 seasons. After building, they had specified planting days so people could come together and share extra plants, etc. They had a first year budget of $3000 to pay for water from the neighbor and their entire water bill and materials, etc., much of which was donated.
The second season they got a grant for $10,000 from the MRA plan Education Committee (administered by the Sawmill Community Land Trust). With this money they hired a garden manager and organized events and education for the space to gain community support even if people did not garden there.*"important and critical"
Wade also stresses that an affiliation with a non-profit and/or an existing entity is recommended to remain sustainable, such as a church, community center, school, etc. for land and water security, storage, and a possibility for grants. The plot fees help with some of the cost, but could never cover them all for a garden this size.
They have started to collect rain water from a neighbor's roof; did a worm-composting bin art/education project with Wells Park CC after-school program;
had potlucks and workshops to bring people in to build "social capital" and "social sustainability." Although he said they put out flyers for the workshops, I did not hear about them in any way. So I want to contact him about this.
My take on Buzz: since they have land insecurity (3 year contract w/Dory, yearly renewal), I think Harwood, Wade, etc might be interested in considering the land across 15th for a permanent home. I think us developing that property is way beyond our scope, especially after hearing all about committees, grants, managers, etc.
The way to get more involvement for The Plot Thickens is to be hyper-local and more communicative with the neighbors in a very small radius. With SCLT developing a huge garden and the existence of Buzz, I think we should not try to compete with them, but add what only a small, non-bureaucratic entity can. And what is this you say? let's discuss it!!
Also let's check out their worm-composting bins.
John Bulten, Director of East Central Ministries, community development through urban farming
eastcentralministries.org
Garden is N of central @123 Vermont St NE, behind a house that was donated, in operation for 7 years. Let's check it out together.
They manufacture ollas which are porous clay containers to be buried up to the neck for watering, at 420 Virginia St SE.
Their focus is on "building community with purpose," "raising up indigenous leaders" and kids. That neighborhood has 82% rental housing; the population is really transient. Some years are more successful than others.
They have a greenhouse that was converted from a carport. They have chickens, solar panels, often go to Farmer's Market, have a tutoring program for the kids in school. They have all these projects including the olla-making to increase community involvement, provide jobs, keep kids and adults busy and engaged in positive activities. They have worm composting with help from Soilutions.
They have a food co-op that costs $15/month for a family share with 2 hours of volunteer work. Families pick up food weekly. They distribute 2-3 tons of food a week. Obviously they didn't grow it all!
They also have a housing co-op and a health clinic.
My take is, We need to check this place out even if just for inspiration.
Christianna Cappelle, manager of Gardeners Guild, new location 4012 Central SE, 268-2719, library, exchange, resource center and store with super cute garden stuff and books to help operating costs. In existence for 5 years, a gathering, social space, online support, organizing "Albuquerque Garden Exchange" network for info, team visits, tours, food, etc., a clearinghouse, collecting point.
More stuff
a garden registry is being constructed
a garden at schools registry is being constructed
Susan from Rio Grande Community Farm is organizing the next community garden tour.
garden accessibility for all ages, needs, etc
Rebecca Dakota, independent video producer, wants to make a movie about growing food and needs funding sources/ideas. 858-1868
Hank Bruce, horticultural therapist and founder of Hunger Grow Away attended. hungergrowaway.com
many, many people were there; I haven't gotten the contact list yet.
I was interested in a program called "Kids Cooking," but did not see the person to talk with after.
And finally, a squash bug tip from Petie Mesquite, an Arizona garden personality:
use coyote squash pureed to spray all over squash plants to keep the squash bugs away. He swears it works. Lets try it.
localfoodnm.org
I also registered at gardenersguild.org as a member of The Plot Thickens, but also as a landscape designer. I will copy you on the summary I send to them that Christianna Cappelle asked for at the meeting.
Next meeting of Ag. Collab: Feb. 11, Alternative Irrigation Methods @Mr.Cog building (white columned, on Copper, across from Farmer's Market park)
Agriculture Collaborative Meeting: The Buzz Around Community Gardens, Jan. 14
Speakers
Wade Patterson, Buzz Action on 8th and Summer, and Director of Arts and Community Dev. at Harwood Art Center.
Buzz has 4 plots (originally 9x3 each) that are designated for neighborhood picking, anyone who wanders in or is hungry, etc. These are tended by volunteers (as all other plot is assigned to a paying member who tends by his/herself) and a sign directs one to the plots and asks that they take only what they need and leave the rest for others. He says it works fine and reduces stealing from private plots.
Buzz has a management committee and a contract w/Dory the land owner. They relied heavily on the Wasatch Handbook about community gardens which is available online. They had straw bale raised beds, but will replace them with some kind of stone/concrete this year (3rd season) as the bales are good for only 2 seasons. After building, they had specified planting days so people could come together and share extra plants, etc. They had a first year budget of $3000 to pay for water from the neighbor and their entire water bill and materials, etc., much of which was donated.
The second season they got a grant for $10,000 from the MRA plan Education Committee (administered by the Sawmill Community Land Trust). With this money they hired a garden manager and organized events and education for the space to gain community support even if people did not garden there.*"important and critical"
Wade also stresses that an affiliation with a non-profit and/or an existing entity is recommended to remain sustainable, such as a church, community center, school, etc. for land and water security, storage, and a possibility for grants. The plot fees help with some of the cost, but could never cover them all for a garden this size.
They have started to collect rain water from a neighbor's roof; did a worm-composting bin art/education project with Wells Park CC after-school program;
had potlucks and workshops to bring people in to build "social capital" and "social sustainability." Although he said they put out flyers for the workshops, I did not hear about them in any way. So I want to contact him about this.
My take on Buzz: since they have land insecurity (3 year contract w/Dory, yearly renewal), I think Harwood, Wade, etc might be interested in considering the land across 15th for a permanent home. I think us developing that property is way beyond our scope, especially after hearing all about committees, grants, managers, etc.
The way to get more involvement for The Plot Thickens is to be hyper-local and more communicative with the neighbors in a very small radius. With SCLT developing a huge garden and the existence of Buzz, I think we should not try to compete with them, but add what only a small, non-bureaucratic entity can. And what is this you say? let's discuss it!!
Also let's check out their worm-composting bins.
John Bulten, Director of East Central Ministries, community development through urban farming
eastcentralministries.org
Garden is N of central @123 Vermont St NE, behind a house that was donated, in operation for 7 years. Let's check it out together.
They manufacture ollas which are porous clay containers to be buried up to the neck for watering, at 420 Virginia St SE.
Their focus is on "building community with purpose," "raising up indigenous leaders" and kids. That neighborhood has 82% rental housing; the population is really transient. Some years are more successful than others.
They have a greenhouse that was converted from a carport. They have chickens, solar panels, often go to Farmer's Market, have a tutoring program for the kids in school. They have all these projects including the olla-making to increase community involvement, provide jobs, keep kids and adults busy and engaged in positive activities. They have worm composting with help from Soilutions.
They have a food co-op that costs $15/month for a family share with 2 hours of volunteer work. Families pick up food weekly. They distribute 2-3 tons of food a week. Obviously they didn't grow it all!
They also have a housing co-op and a health clinic.
My take is, We need to check this place out even if just for inspiration.
Christianna Cappelle, manager of Gardeners Guild, new location 4012 Central SE, 268-2719, library, exchange, resource center and store with super cute garden stuff and books to help operating costs. In existence for 5 years, a gathering, social space, online support, organizing "Albuquerque Garden Exchange" network for info, team visits, tours, food, etc., a clearinghouse, collecting point.
More stuff
a garden registry is being constructed
a garden at schools registry is being constructed
Susan from Rio Grande Community Farm is organizing the next community garden tour.
garden accessibility for all ages, needs, etc
Rebecca Dakota, independent video producer, wants to make a movie about growing food and needs funding sources/ideas. 858-1868
Hank Bruce, horticultural therapist and founder of Hunger Grow Away attended. hungergrowaway.com
many, many people were there; I haven't gotten the contact list yet.
I was interested in a program called "Kids Cooking," but did not see the person to talk with after.
And finally, a squash bug tip from Petie Mesquite, an Arizona garden personality:
use coyote squash pureed to spray all over squash plants to keep the squash bugs away. He swears it works. Lets try it.
june +
June is a good time to plant hard squash and swiss chard which are both on our wanted list.
wonderful news about your efforts on that mean grass!! Thank you!
I will have a friend from out of town on Saturday, so I don't know if I can get her to work or stay long, but we will be there.
oh, yes, I can water Thursday.
my friend Andrea helped alot on Friday. she is hoping to come over lots more this summer since she is a teacher off for the summer.
we planted 4 sweet 100 tomatoes, cilantro, basil, bee balm, strawberry, oregano, garden sage and cleome.
marie
Gardenistas ---
Lots of things happening in our garden. Marie was here with a friend on Friday and they planted new things (tomatoes and other stuff) and harvested the garlic. You will find lots and lots of garlic drying on the fence for your kitchen.
And Constantine came over this afternoon and we dug out weeds like crazy. Last night I took the weed whacker and cut down the tall grass outside of the garden fence. And today I dug out a lot of that very stubborn grass on the north side of the garden. Constantine put his muscle into digging that stubborn grass out in the NW corner of the garden, including a lot of the grass and weeds that were overtaking the NW bed.
Thank you Constantine!
I forgot to mention that I'm going to be in Boulder, Colorado on Wed/Thurs/Friday this week attending a conference. Can anyone stop by and water those evenings?
What about a potluck dinner and some gardening this Saturday (6/6) at 6 PM? Sounds like an auspicious time for a gathering. 666.
Let me know -- and bring a friend!
Lora
wonderful news about your efforts on that mean grass!! Thank you!
I will have a friend from out of town on Saturday, so I don't know if I can get her to work or stay long, but we will be there.
oh, yes, I can water Thursday.
my friend Andrea helped alot on Friday. she is hoping to come over lots more this summer since she is a teacher off for the summer.
we planted 4 sweet 100 tomatoes, cilantro, basil, bee balm, strawberry, oregano, garden sage and cleome.
marie
Gardenistas ---
Lots of things happening in our garden. Marie was here with a friend on Friday and they planted new things (tomatoes and other stuff) and harvested the garlic. You will find lots and lots of garlic drying on the fence for your kitchen.
And Constantine came over this afternoon and we dug out weeds like crazy. Last night I took the weed whacker and cut down the tall grass outside of the garden fence. And today I dug out a lot of that very stubborn grass on the north side of the garden. Constantine put his muscle into digging that stubborn grass out in the NW corner of the garden, including a lot of the grass and weeds that were overtaking the NW bed.
Thank you Constantine!
I forgot to mention that I'm going to be in Boulder, Colorado on Wed/Thurs/Friday this week attending a conference. Can anyone stop by and water those evenings?
What about a potluck dinner and some gardening this Saturday (6/6) at 6 PM? Sounds like an auspicious time for a gathering. 666.
Let me know -- and bring a friend!
Lora
Thursday, May 28, 2009
mustard greens
Mustard Greens
Mustard Greens
Have you ever tried mustard greens? Related to kale, cabbage, and collard greens, they are the peppery leafy greens of the mustard plant and are used frequently in Chinese, Japanese, and Indian cooking. I find them less bitter than kale or collard greens, and more peppery, like arugula. Just one taste of a raw leaf and you'll know it came from a mustard plant. Cooked, they taste a lot like spinach, but with more body. My father recently discovered mustard greens at our local farmers market and they're his new love. I like them with a dash of dark sesame oil, but you could easily just cook them up with a little garlic and olive oil.
Ingredients
* 1/2 cup thinly sliced onions
* 2 cloves garlic, minced
* 1 Tbsp olive oil
* 1 pound mustard greens, washed and torn into large pieces
* 2 to 3 Tbsp chicken broth or vegetable broth (vegetarian option)
* 1/4 teaspoon salt
* 1/4 teaspoon pepper
* 1/4 teaspoon dark sesame oil
Method
1 In a large sauté pan, sauté onions in olive oil over medium heat until the onions begin to brown and caramelize, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook a minute more, until fragrant.
2 Add the mustard greens and broth and cook until the mustard greens are just barely wilted. Toss with sesame oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Serves 4.
Ingredients for braised greens
* 4 slices bacon, chopped
* 3 bunches mustard greens, trimmed and chopped
* 2 tablespoons white vinegar
* 2 teaspoons sugar
* Coarse salt
* 2 cups chicken broth
*
Directions
In a large skillet over medium high heat brown bacon and render its fat. Add chopped greens to the pan in batches and turn until they wilt, then add more greens. When all of the greens are in the pan, add vinegar and cook a minute. Season greens with sugar and salt. Add chicken broth to the pan and cover. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer greens 15 to 20 minutes then serve.
White Bean soup w/mustard greens
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 cup diced onion
1 carrot, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
8 ounces baked ham, diced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
2 19-ounce cans white
beans, rinsed and drained
2 14.5-ounce cans
reduced-sodium chicken
broth
2 cups chopped fresh
mustard greens
Salt and ground black pepper
4 tablespoons grated
Parmesan cheese
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, carrot and garlic and saute 3 minutes, until soft. Add ham and cook 2 minutes. Stir in thyme and bay leaves, then add beans and broth and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, partially cover and simmer 20 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaves.
Add mustard greens and simmer 1 minute, until greens wilt. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Ladle soup into bowls and top with Parmesan cheese.
Nutrition Score per serving (1 1/2 cups soup, 1 tablespoon cheese): 441 calories, 12% fat (6 g; 2 g saturated), 56% carbs (62 g), 32% protein (35 g), 15 g fiber, 302 mg calcium, 9 mg iron, 1,018 mg sodium.
Mustard Greens
Have you ever tried mustard greens? Related to kale, cabbage, and collard greens, they are the peppery leafy greens of the mustard plant and are used frequently in Chinese, Japanese, and Indian cooking. I find them less bitter than kale or collard greens, and more peppery, like arugula. Just one taste of a raw leaf and you'll know it came from a mustard plant. Cooked, they taste a lot like spinach, but with more body. My father recently discovered mustard greens at our local farmers market and they're his new love. I like them with a dash of dark sesame oil, but you could easily just cook them up with a little garlic and olive oil.
Ingredients
* 1/2 cup thinly sliced onions
* 2 cloves garlic, minced
* 1 Tbsp olive oil
* 1 pound mustard greens, washed and torn into large pieces
* 2 to 3 Tbsp chicken broth or vegetable broth (vegetarian option)
* 1/4 teaspoon salt
* 1/4 teaspoon pepper
* 1/4 teaspoon dark sesame oil
Method
1 In a large sauté pan, sauté onions in olive oil over medium heat until the onions begin to brown and caramelize, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook a minute more, until fragrant.
2 Add the mustard greens and broth and cook until the mustard greens are just barely wilted. Toss with sesame oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Serves 4.
Ingredients for braised greens
* 4 slices bacon, chopped
* 3 bunches mustard greens, trimmed and chopped
* 2 tablespoons white vinegar
* 2 teaspoons sugar
* Coarse salt
* 2 cups chicken broth
*
Directions
In a large skillet over medium high heat brown bacon and render its fat. Add chopped greens to the pan in batches and turn until they wilt, then add more greens. When all of the greens are in the pan, add vinegar and cook a minute. Season greens with sugar and salt. Add chicken broth to the pan and cover. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer greens 15 to 20 minutes then serve.
White Bean soup w/mustard greens
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 cup diced onion
1 carrot, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
8 ounces baked ham, diced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
2 19-ounce cans white
beans, rinsed and drained
2 14.5-ounce cans
reduced-sodium chicken
broth
2 cups chopped fresh
mustard greens
Salt and ground black pepper
4 tablespoons grated
Parmesan cheese
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, carrot and garlic and saute 3 minutes, until soft. Add ham and cook 2 minutes. Stir in thyme and bay leaves, then add beans and broth and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, partially cover and simmer 20 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaves.
Add mustard greens and simmer 1 minute, until greens wilt. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Ladle soup into bowls and top with Parmesan cheese.
Nutrition Score per serving (1 1/2 cups soup, 1 tablespoon cheese): 441 calories, 12% fat (6 g; 2 g saturated), 56% carbs (62 g), 32% protein (35 g), 15 g fiber, 302 mg calcium, 9 mg iron, 1,018 mg sodium.
Saturday, May 16, 2009
check the master gardener's calender monthly
http://abqmastergardeners.org/modules.php?name=Garden_Calendar
Watering. Watering is tricky in May. Small, new plants haven't yet developed enough roots to handle sudden hot weather and must be spot watered daily or as needed. Here's a trick to find out if a new transplant has "taken root:" About two weeks after setting out the plant, try tugging on it VERY, VERY gently; if you feel some resistance, it's roots have spread into the surrounding area and you can probably reduce watering.
If you have lawn sprinklers, check the spray pattern. Dry spots will tell you where adjustments are needed. Get it fixed now so you won't be over watering all summer just for a few dry spots.
• Plant beans, corn, cucumber, eggplant, melons, potatoes, pumpkins, peppers, squash, and tomatoes. Start some from seed and transplant the ones you started in February and March. And don't forget the chile!
Watering. Watering is tricky in May. Small, new plants haven't yet developed enough roots to handle sudden hot weather and must be spot watered daily or as needed. Here's a trick to find out if a new transplant has "taken root:" About two weeks after setting out the plant, try tugging on it VERY, VERY gently; if you feel some resistance, it's roots have spread into the surrounding area and you can probably reduce watering.
If you have lawn sprinklers, check the spray pattern. Dry spots will tell you where adjustments are needed. Get it fixed now so you won't be over watering all summer just for a few dry spots.
• Plant beans, corn, cucumber, eggplant, melons, potatoes, pumpkins, peppers, squash, and tomatoes. Start some from seed and transplant the ones you started in February and March. And don't forget the chile!
from Rita 4/28/9
I've turned on the soakers and then hand watered some of the lettuce that doesn't seem to be getting any moisture and I hand water the areas that we just planted - in the garlic area and the two middle sections. I spend about 30 minutes there. I also water the plants next to the porch, the starter plants on the little table and anything else in pots that's dry. It appears the dog walker is watering all the petunias. I watered the plants under the big tree today so they might be ok for a few days.
The main valve at the back of the yard stays on and the soaker hose valve gets turned on and off. The mail valve closer to the house gets turned on - one if soaker and the other is plain hose for hand watering.
The main valve at the back of the yard stays on and the soaker hose valve gets turned on and off. The mail valve closer to the house gets turned on - one if soaker and the other is plain hose for hand watering.
from gardener's guild 5/6/9
we need to mulch this month after we get all our plants in.
From: info@gardenersguild.org
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 13:53:58 -0400
With a possibility of 90 degrees this week, coping techniques to manage your plants and lessen your labor are key to bountiful results.
+ Lettuce and other cool weather varieties will be struggling to keep it together. To extend them into warmer temperatures, shade them now from almost all direct sun.
+ Be sure to mulch, or cover the soil from the sun, to reduce evaporation, maintain cool roots & reduce stress.
+ Plant in groupings when possible as plants protect and support each other.
+ Interplant varieties, with low growing snugged next to taller and branching edibles
+ And grow through all seasons, simply! When it seems July or August couldn't get any hotter, and the summer may never end, look forward to sowing seeds for September gardens that will grow through the cold months. Contact gardeners'guild with your planning questions and remember, summer will come to an end but the fun of gardening and rewards of creating your urban oasis will continue, over longhaul.
From: info@gardenersguild.org
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 13:53:58 -0400
With a possibility of 90 degrees this week, coping techniques to manage your plants and lessen your labor are key to bountiful results.
+ Lettuce and other cool weather varieties will be struggling to keep it together. To extend them into warmer temperatures, shade them now from almost all direct sun.
+ Be sure to mulch, or cover the soil from the sun, to reduce evaporation, maintain cool roots & reduce stress.
+ Plant in groupings when possible as plants protect and support each other.
+ Interplant varieties, with low growing snugged next to taller and branching edibles
+ And grow through all seasons, simply! When it seems July or August couldn't get any hotter, and the summer may never end, look forward to sowing seeds for September gardens that will grow through the cold months. Contact gardeners'guild with your planning questions and remember, summer will come to an end but the fun of gardening and rewards of creating your urban oasis will continue, over longhaul.
from Lora 5/10/09
Gardenistas!
Our garden is really blossoming. Beth stopped by this morning to plant some tomato plants - thank you Beth! She noticed that the red lettuce is ready for the plucking right now .... and some other things are already beginning to bolt (go to seed). Beth showed me how to tell when the garlic is ready to be pulled. I'll show you when we gather.
There is garlic and onions drying on the picnic table for anyone's pleasure. Please take it and make something delicious!
And a special hug to Deborah who just had surgery. We're hoping for a speedy recovery!!
xoxo Lora
Our garden is really blossoming. Beth stopped by this morning to plant some tomato plants - thank you Beth! She noticed that the red lettuce is ready for the plucking right now .... and some other things are already beginning to bolt (go to seed). Beth showed me how to tell when the garlic is ready to be pulled. I'll show you when we gather.
There is garlic and onions drying on the picnic table for anyone's pleasure. Please take it and make something delicious!
And a special hug to Deborah who just had surgery. We're hoping for a speedy recovery!!
xoxo Lora
5/15/09 old notes and weeds to watch out for
other weeds to watch out for: elm seed sprouts, grass, willow-leaf cottonwood shoots in the back left corner, those ones that are furry and have tiny thorns on the stems (wear gloves to pull!)
We need to fix the soaker hoses somehow!
If anyone helps Lora with watering, please remember to leave the round red handle on the spigot alone and only turn the valve for the specific hose parallel with the line to turn it on, and across the line to turn it off.
Another note on last year's tomatoes, in addition to an imperfect spot in the plot with tree roots and shade, the varying temperatures, cool spells and not hot enough, probably caused some overwatering.
A note on the garlic: there is no way we can stop watering that plot. Drying of the garlic in the ground, according to Amanda, is just to make the garlic last longer. It is not required.
there is lots of stuff growing, but if we concentrate on that one particular vining weed with the slightly oblong leaf, we will have plenty to do. this is the most invasive, insidious weed and we can leave things we are not sure about and see if they have any value for the garden later; most won't take over, but the vine one will!
We need to fix the soaker hoses somehow!
If anyone helps Lora with watering, please remember to leave the round red handle on the spigot alone and only turn the valve for the specific hose parallel with the line to turn it on, and across the line to turn it off.
Another note on last year's tomatoes, in addition to an imperfect spot in the plot with tree roots and shade, the varying temperatures, cool spells and not hot enough, probably caused some overwatering.
A note on the garlic: there is no way we can stop watering that plot. Drying of the garlic in the ground, according to Amanda, is just to make the garlic last longer. It is not required.
there is lots of stuff growing, but if we concentrate on that one particular vining weed with the slightly oblong leaf, we will have plenty to do. this is the most invasive, insidious weed and we can leave things we are not sure about and see if they have any value for the garden later; most won't take over, but the vine one will!
Thursday, April 30, 2009
our girl Deborah and her pain
Hey g'nistas...
I'm sorry I haven't been joining in on the watering - I have been running around getting medical tests etc done. It seems I have to have surgery on this joint thing. They will remove about one third of the right clavicle, part of the sternum and some of the rib underneath. He wants to schedule the surgery for ASAP, I see him again tomorrow. So, I may not be much help over the next month or so. Boo. At least, hopefully, it will put an end to the seemingly endless saga of the past four months. (Who knows, I may be able to plant a small garden in my new chest cavity next year!)
I wish you soft dirt, much flowering, and no pests, deborah
I'm sorry I haven't been joining in on the watering - I have been running around getting medical tests etc done. It seems I have to have surgery on this joint thing. They will remove about one third of the right clavicle, part of the sternum and some of the rib underneath. He wants to schedule the surgery for ASAP, I see him again tomorrow. So, I may not be much help over the next month or so. Boo. At least, hopefully, it will put an end to the seemingly endless saga of the past four months. (Who knows, I may be able to plant a small garden in my new chest cavity next year!)
I wish you soft dirt, much flowering, and no pests, deborah
gardener's guild; almost May
I went here yesterday and got a Goliath tomato start and that half celery/half parsley thing.
Christianna said to call anytime with gardening questions. She also advised us to mulch between plants even using newspaper pinned down to reduce evaporation by the end of may after we get all our plants in. I told her that we were trying a crowded planting scheme which she said was good that the plants shade the soil and reduce water use.
they also have the super-cutest gardening shop. it is a non-profit and the shop helps them stay open. a membership is $40 and I am going to ask her is we can join as a garden group.
I am watering saturday, monday. who can water friday, sunday and tuesday?
Christianna said to call anytime with gardening questions. She also advised us to mulch between plants even using newspaper pinned down to reduce evaporation by the end of may after we get all our plants in. I told her that we were trying a crowded planting scheme which she said was good that the plants shade the soil and reduce water use.
they also have the super-cutest gardening shop. it is a non-profit and the shop helps them stay open. a membership is $40 and I am going to ask her is we can join as a garden group.
I am watering saturday, monday. who can water friday, sunday and tuesday?
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